Choosing the right natural ingredient

As a result of the environmental problems caused by plastic particles, cosmetic brands are increasingly focussing their research on the use of exfoliating particles from natural sources. The formulation of exfoliating scrubs becomes more complex when natural particles are used due to possible interactions with the product itself. Formulators need to take several factors into account when selecting a suitable ingredient for a project such as colour, abrasiveness, particle size, shape and suspension properties, as well as compatibility and stability with the chosen formula. The marketing aspect and regulatory data also has to be taken into consideration.

A wide range of exfoliants meet market requirements. Exfoliants made from fruit kernels and shells are inert, effective and give a natural touch. Amongst the most commonly used are the shells of apricot, olive, walnut, peach, almond or argan kernels. Mineral-based products are highly abrasive and are used for specific purposes. These exfoliants should be chosen when a high degree of abrasiveness is required. They are light coloured for the most part (beige to grey) making them inconspicuous in formulations.

The main difficulty in using minerals in formulations lies in their limited ability to remain in suspension as their high density means that they tend to settle easily. Coloured luffas, generally used in transparent products, bring a touch of colour. These come in around ten different colours ranging from blue to red and including green, orange or yellow. The fibrous structure tends to glide over the skin resulting in gentle exfoliation. Flower petals or leaves produce original formulations with a guaranteed decorative effect. Exfoliants made from fruits, spices or seeds provide a variety of colours, texture and perfumes which are good for market differentiation.

Conventional mineral or plant-based exfoliants cannot provide a completely satisfactory alternative to PE because they do not share the same characteristics. To compensate for these technical constraints, the celluloscrub cellulose acetate technology means exfoliating particles can be produced as an effective replacement for PE. This is the most recent technology developed to produce exfoliating particles as an effective replacement.

Discovered at the end of the 19th century, cellulose acetate was the first bioplastic to be discovered and was used in numerous industrial applications from the early 20th century onwards. Everyday objects in the 20th century were made from cellulose acetate. It was only from the second half of the century that petrol derivates took over due to the fact that they were slightly less expensive to produce and easier to extrude.

Celluloscrub is the commercial name given to this technology derived from cellulose acetate. It is made from cellulose, a renewable raw material, but modified by acetic acid. It goes without saying that it is biodegradable. It takes the form of a white exfoliating powder with the same abrasiveness as polyethylene and the same suspension properties. The value of this technology is its perfect stability in all formulation types, including aqueous formulas rich in surfactants.

Choosing a natural exfoliating ingredient is not as simple as it seems. A formulator must simultaneously take into consideration the technical, marketing and regulatory aspects. A wide choice of exfoliating ingredients is available, catering for different requirements. Each ingredient has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Many exfoliants provide an interesting alternative to PE and bring an obvious natural touch which makes them highly popular. However, it is only recently that an ultimate and ideal alternative to PE has come to the market. Only cellulose acetate technology can help meet all the requirements of formulators in terms of stability, effectiveness and biodegradability.