5 must-go cafes in Rome

CAFFÉ SANT'EUSTACHIO
By far the most intact of Rome's ancient monuments, the Pantheon is an impressive sight. For post-sightseeing relaxation, avoid the cafes that fringe the edge of the piazza just outside the dome.

Instead, just behind the Pantheon you'll find what many feel is absolutely Rome's best coffee, usually served Neapolitan-style "" that is, very, very sweet. You can ask for it without sugar, but they'll think you're weird. They do a fantastic line in coffee-based sweets and cakes too. Piazza Sant' Eustachio 82. Tues-Sun 8.30am - 1am.

DALCI & DONI
Just a few streets away from one of the most distinctive attractions "" the Spanish Steps on Piazza di Spagna "" sits Dolci & Doni. Historically the artistic quarter of the capital, nowadays this area is international designer territory, with some of Rome's fanciest stores.

For a break from shopping, this cafe offers tea, snacks and a truly sumptuous array of pastries "" don't miss the lemon cheesecake in particular. Via delle Carrozze 85. Daily 8am-8pm.

IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO
The Trevi Fountain or Fontana di Trevi "" a magical, must-see sight "" is a huge, baroque gush of water over statues and rocks. After visiting the fountain, escape the crowds and make your way to this fantastic ice cream parlour, considered by many to offer the best ice cream in Rome, and certainly the most genuine. Natural flavours will make the other gelato you've known pale by comparison. Via della Panetteria 42. Wed-Mon, noon-midnight.

INNOCENTI
Once the artisan area of the city, Trastevere's charming cobblestone streets and tiny piazzas is what a visit to Rome is all about. And Innocenti is Trastevere's best biscottificio, a family operation that has been running for 100 years.

Wonderful, chewy croccantini "" half chocolate, half vanilla "" plus amarettii (almond biscuits), brutti ma buoni (hazelnut biscuits), straccetti (almond and hazelnut biscuits) and dozens more varieties. Via della Luce 21, Mon-Sat 9am-1pm and 4-7.30pm, Sun 9am-1pm; closed Aug 15-Sept 15.

VALZANI
Another of Trastevere's delights, Valzani is in fact one of the oldest of the city's pastry shops which still keeps up tradition by serving marvellous mostaccioli and pangiallo (both are traditional dried fruit and nut honey bars, the former chocolate covered), amazing schertorte (classic Viennese double-chocolate cake with apricot filling), and, at Easter time, huge, gift-filled chocolate eggs which you can have your name etched on. Via del Moro 37, Wed-Sun 10am-8.30pm; closed June-Sept 15, extended hours at Christmas and Easter.