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A chateau for all seasons

Designed in a neo-classical chateau style, the Four Season's winery rises out of a gently-sloping terrain amidst 50 acres of vineyards

Alok Chandra Bangalore
Last Updated : Apr 19 2013 | 10:20 PM IST
The Four Seasons winery is quite simply the most imposing winery in India and quite possibly all Asia - almost a statement of intent by owner United Spirits Ltd (and its boss Vijay Mallya) that it will be the market leader in India sooner or later.

Designed in a neo-classical chateau style (with Indian touches) by Mumbai-based architect Naozar Irani, the structure rises out of a gently-sloping terrain amidst 50 acres of vineyards - white stucco walls, red-tiled roofs, and a central tower that differentiates the whole edifice from a European chateau . The driveway is lined with fountains and terminates in a large roundabout with a fountain and lawn - a very continental touch. Inside the chateau (yes, let's call it that) there are 10 rooms and 4 suites, furnished to 3-star hotel standards - comfortable and well-appointed, and located on the 1st floor level around a central courtyard with lush greenery.

In fact, one could be excused for thinking that this was a hotel or resort, for the winery itself is discreetly hidden away in the basement and ground floor levels - accessible, but not in your face. And that's despite having the capacity to produce 1.5 million litres of wine - which can be expanded to 9 million litres in stages by adding vinification tanks and the attendant utilities.

The unit is located about two hours from Pune, off NH9 going towards Solapur and some 35 km short of Baramati (Sharad Pawar's constituency) and has been six years and Rs 50 crore in the making.

The Four Seasons brand of wines was launched in 2009 using grapes from local growers, and even today the majority of grapes used are from third parties as the vineyards surrounding the winery are relatively new and produced only about 10 per cent of its total requirement of 1,500 tonnes of grapes in 2013. This is a boon to grape farmers in the state as former industry leader Indage is still in the doldrums. However, the technical facilities at the unit are first class, and its barrel room world class, with about 400 barriques from Radoux and other top-notch French suppliers in an impeccably maintained cellar. Its export label, Ritu ("Seasons"), made a bit of a splash in end-2011 when the Viognier (white) was listed by the Waitrose supermarket chain in the UK, and the brand is set to be brought into India at a price and quality higher than Four Seasons.

And what of the wines themselves? During my visit this past Monday I tasted all its wines, both of the 2012 vintage as well as the 2013 vintage still in the tanks, and find there's a remarkable improvement in quality: the whites (Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier) have more aroma and balance, while the reds (Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon) have more structure and complexity. And, as my tasting notes below for selected wines indicate, the winery is certainly capable of producing sublime wines.

Wines I've been drinking: Four Seasons, naturally. I particularly liked its Brut Rose' (sparkling): a dark orange-pink, with a terrific mousse, an intense aroma of berries and fruit, and a dry but balanced palate -will be a game-changer when launched! Then there was the Ritu 'Super-Barrique' Shiraz 2010 trotted out as a special: its inky colour presaged a complex aroma of fruit and spice and an oaky but soft taste that lingered.

Four Seasons is gearing-up for a 'launch' of the facility by September 2013 and a visit is not to be missed - check its website www.fourseasonsvineyards.com for bookings.

Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant

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First Published: Apr 19 2013 | 9:27 PM IST

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