The buyers are here, the designers are here, and the buzz has deals in the making. |
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week kicked off with Niki Mahajan and Pria Kataria Puri's shows at The Grand in Delhi over much touted numbers (80 designers, and 70 international and 90 domestic buyers) and high expectations. |
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The morning shows went off smoothly (Malini Ramani's summery line went off well with an appreciative crowd, though Mumbai-based Deepika Gehani's line fell a little flat), but the official kick-off to fashion week was probably Manish Arora's afternoon show that had everyone on the edge of their seats with his trademark bright colours and kitsch. |
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Sunil Sethi, CEO, Allianz Merchandising (representing companies such as Selfridges in India), was moved to say at the end, "Manish is perfect for many of my buyers because a lot of them are looking for a very young street look. Also, when they come to India, they are looking for Indian sensibilities, and this is something Manish can always deliver. No one can represent India like Manish." |
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Chantal Rousseau, VP, Bloomingdales (Europe) was equally effusive about Arora's showing. "There are two things that one must take into account, silhouette and embellishment. The trend, internationally, is voluminous (the silhouette) and Manish has both embellishment and volume," Rousseau said. |
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Bloomingdales had already placed an order for Arora's spring collection last October and Rousseau added that the line is moving fabulously. |
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But while Bloomingdales will almost certainly place further orders, Rousseau, like most buyers, declined to comment on how big her shopping bag was going to be. |
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The mood at the end of the day was one of optimism for other buyers too from Harvey Nichols (London), Tsum (Moscow), Selfridges (London), Harrods (London), and Saks 5th Avenue (Dubai), among others. |
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Maria Pamilou, owner of the big Paris store Maria Luisa, was in fact, wearing a Manish Arora skirt at the designer's show "" the store also retails Arora's line. And reps from Harrod's, Arora's main stockist in London, were also rooting for their favourite. |
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Harrod's Jason Broderick was, in fact, clear that he was in India (his second coming) to "explore" but focussing primarily on quintessential "Indian" designs "" with over-the-top embellishment, some would say. "I obviously don't expect to find a Chanel here," Broderick said. |
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Xavier Vazquez, a buyer from Spain, at his third year here, is confident that India is one of the hot new markets in Asia, and this is where the fashion action will be over the next decade. |
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"Fashion weeks in London, New York and Paris are still popular," he concedes, "but Milan is slipping. Fashion weeks in India, Hong Kong and Singapore are what's exciting today. This is where the designers are; this is where the market is; so this is where all the buyers must come as well." |
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Vazquez is buying for his boutique store Ananda, where he sells exclusively Indian designs. He has tie-ups with at least 14-15 designers, among them Anshu Arora Sen, Abraham & Thakore, and Kavita Bhartia. |
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With most big-ticket designers showing in Delhi, "To have another show in Mumbai was a big mistake," says Velazquez. "What other countries have two fashion weeks? Only Spain, and that is probably why we have such a weak fashion position in Europe." Sethi adds, " This is where the serious buying happens. Why would we go to Mumbai?" |
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