Chilean concerto

THE WINE CLUB

Chilean wines have a "gay" history. While Spanish missionaries brought grapes to Chile in the 1500s, it was only in the 1830s that the scientist and naturalist Claudio Gay introduced Vitis vinifera to the Maipo Valley (near Santiago).

The industry developed in near isolation (and hence never got infected with the phylloxera louse "" which devastated vineyards in Europe towards the end of the 19th century), and it was only with the liberalisation of their economy in 1980 that Chilean wines started hitting world markets.

Today, Chile is the fifth-largest exporter of wines "" 470 million litres in 2004, which is three-fourths of their total production (remember, the total wine market in India is only about 5 million litres). Chilean wines are simply great value: good quality stuff at unbelievably low prices "" which is why they do so well wherever they are available.

Since the country is a long, thin strip (4,300 km long but only about 200 km wide) of land between the Andes mountains and the Pacific Ocean, they have the entire range of microclimates, from hot and dry to cold and wet, and a range of wines to match "" although their reds are better known.

Given their Spanish heritage, it is no surprise that Miguel Torres established the first modern winery in Chile (early 1980s); they have been followed by a host of biggies (Kendall-Jackson, Robert Mondavi, Lafite Rothschild and Beringer Estates) all seeking a part of the action. There are over 32,000 wineries in Chile "" one for every 500 people! And wines from the best known and biggest are already available in India: Santa Rita, Vina Tarapaca, Casa Lapostolle, Montes "" although I've never figured out why the biggest (Concha y Toro) is yet to find representation here.

The most affordable Chilean wines are the two varietals (a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sauvignon Blanc) from Morande Indage at Rs 460-560 as well as Sula's Satori Merlot (Rs 450-550), all of which are imported in bulk and bottled in India. Sula also markets Santa Rita 120 Chardonnay and Merlot in Goa and Mumbai (Rs 750 and 950 respectively) "" yummy medium-bodied wines that go well with Indian cuisines.

Wines from Paso de Luz (Rs 700 in Bangalore) are great value, though somewhat hard to get hold of (I suspect they fly off the shelves). There is also a mouth-watering range of wines from Vina Tarapaca and Montes, all in the Rs 900-1,200 per bottle range "" grab them when you want some nice, complex wines. And lastly, there are some stunning wines from Casa Lapostolle "" expensive at Rs 1,500+ per bottle, but then when has Moet Hennessy ever sold cheap stuff?

From our Indian perspective, Chile is duur ast (far away), so I doubt whether you've seen many Chilean winemakers doing the winemaker dinner thing "" unlike the tribe from places like Australia. However, Chilean wines make up for their lower profile by delivering great value "" I will say it again: good wines at affordable prices.

Plus some wines that will just blow you away "" I'm just dying to lay my hands on a Concha y Toro Don Melchor 1997 ($50) or a Sena 1997 from the Robert Mondavi venture ($85).

For now, it's Salud and Sanitas bono to you all.