Fashion forward

The authors speak with leading designers about trends that will sparkle in the new year

Exquisite use of jamawar
Tarun Tahiliani

In 2014, easy-to-wear separates became a trend. They could be paired with different silhouettes like dhoti pants, lungi skirts, tunics, T-shirts, innovative kurtas and asymmetrical hemlines for youthful simplicity. It was not about wearing a look from one designer but more about individuality. For 2015, Tahiliani's favourite colours are ombre, yellows to blues, oranges to reds, reds to pinks. "I have used sushi voile, georgettes, cotton jacquards, cotton silks, crepes and cutwork jamdanis to create light and breezy styles in the draped forms," he says. According to Tahiliani, bridal trends are moving away from blingy and multi-coloured ensembles to a more sophisticated palette. Indians are now looking more at comfort, lightness and structure, rather than heavily-embellished outfits that restrict movement and inhibit the fun that one would like to have at one's wedding. "I have used jamawar as embroidery on chiffon and georgettes for my new collection. To my eye, each jamawar is the most complex and exquisite things I have ever seen, so I have even used it as a print," he says. "I also love working with chikankari because it is so fine. Using zardozi in my bridal collection adds a rich feel to the whole silhouette." Modern embellishments, along with Swarovski Elements and crystal pave, blend very well with traditional embroidery and contemporise bridal wear. All Indian fashion came from draping, of textile, and for that, the saree will always remain in vogue. "There are our wonderful dhoti-inspired drapes, lehenga sarees and concept sarees that are very contemporary," explains Tahiliani.

Cerebral designs
Gaurav Gupta

Gaurav Gupta has always tried to do things the unusual way. So, when he recently opened his new store in Mumbai, he didn't do it with a fashion showing or a simple cocktails party. He created a unique fashion and art exhibit at the Delhi Art Gallery. His 2014 couture collection too steered clear of bold solid colours and instead focused on softer hues, fluid drapes, baroque detailing and sheer panels. He is carrying this aesthetic quality forward in 2015 as well. "It will be about non bling. Designs will be sophisticated, intelligent and subtle. Cerebral design will find more and more embracers," says Gupta, who has just shot his new campaign film As You See I Become. The film has been shot by Tarun Vishwa and features Kalki Koechlin. "He's [Gupta] not afraid to try new things and push fashion in daring directions. He's very talented and sure of himself," Koechlin has said about working with the designer.

Reviving the Banaras handloom
Ritu Kumar

This year was all about expansion for Ritu Kumar. Everstone, a Southeast Asian private equity firm and real estate investor, agreed to invest Rs 100 crore for an undisclosed minority stake in her fashion house. She also brought on board French designer Samy Chalon to bring an international touch to her prêt label. "It was a year of expansion, both in terms of size and the qualitative creative process," she says. The next year will carry forth her collaboration with French designers to bring state-of-the-art cutting and a cosmopolitan touch to the designs. Her brand new collection, 'Indian Tuxedo Line' is a result of this creative association. Western silhouettes and Indian motifs have been amalgamated in this collection that features sharply tailored jackets, trousers and shirts. "At the other end of the spectrum, I am working on Banaras handlooms," says Kumar, who is sitting with weavers and craftsmen as we speak. This is part of her revival programme and we shall get to see some results from this in 2015. "You will find more Banaras handlooms in my coming collections," she says.

Inspired by nature
Gauri & Nainika

For the duo, 2014 started on a vibrant note. Their Spring/Summer collection was all about summer romance. The azure waters and pristine beaches of the Amalfi Coast served as inspiration for their luxury holiday collection. "We focused on vibrant colours: greens, reds, yellows. There were rompers, shorts and jumpsuits to choose from, which really became the trend for that season," says Nainika. They have already presented their Spring/Summer 2015 collection, which focuses on the effects of global warming. The blues and white create illusions of melting glaciers and asymmetrical hemlines and flowing textures have been incorporated into the silhouette. "We have used white with colour with an almost 3D-like texturing," she says. One of the most striking dresses makes use of white with a deep electric blue. As for general trends to dominate the coming season, Nainika feels that prints will take a more artistic direction. "And also, separates will definitely be the flavour of the season- cropped tops with skirts and more."

High-flying fashion
Raghavendra Rathore

The natty designer is known for giving a fashionable twist to ethnic wear. He made the bandhgala and jodhpurs relevant in the contemporary fashion scene by infusing fresh life into them. And now Rathore has set his eyes on the Jodhpuri Flying Shoe. "The aviation tradition of Jodhpur city gave way to a new sport for those wishing to be a part of the mile high club. It also heralded the dawn of high-flying fashion, of which the most well-known is the Jodhpur Flying Shoe," he says. According to Rathore, this relic has been seeded through royal history to become an integral part of men's wardrobe, and has now been brought back into limelight [it has been handcrafted in Italy] in a new avatar.

Fashion is serious business
This year was all about optimism, positivity and celebration! Shimmering gold took centre stage, not just in bridal wear but also in jumpsuits, sports wear and dresses. If the Spring/Summer collections focused on bold colours, florals and graphic prints, the Autumn/Winter celebrated unique forms and cuts - from cascades and cropped or asymmetrical tops and wraps paired with belts. The new year will see some of these trends [graphic prints, sheer and more] being taken forward and some new fads being created. 2015 is also the year of "taking up a cause". Leading designers will be seen focusing on one particular issue and creating a fashion concept around it - be it rejuvenating a textile, reviving royal relics or creating sustainable fabrics.