Feud cloud on Patan Patola dyeing

The 'dyeing' artof Patan Patola is slowly succumbing to the internal feuds that have been lingering on for a long time now between the four Salvi families - the sole custodians of this rare traditional form of silk textile.

All efforts to safeguard this 750-year-old art form by seeking registration under the Geographical Indications (GI) of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act by Sristi, a local NGO with support from the National Innovation Foundation (NIF) and IIMA students have stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Two of the four families are unwilling to join hands for forming a brand. Anil Gupta, founder of Sristi and IIMA professor while talking to Business Standard said, "This can be a big loss for everybody. As per the rules for acquiring patent, such craft cannot be protected by one or two producers. It is a collective right and has to be protected in that manner."

All efforts to bring the four Salvi families under one roof and brand the Patan Patola have not succeeded in the past four years. The accomplishment of a brand would prohibit others from faking this double 'ikat' silk from Patan.

"We have done what we could. Now it is left for the government to intervene and solve the matter," Gupta said.

The four families are headed by Bharat Salvi, Ashok Salvi, Kanubhai Salvi and Satish Salvi. After Vinayak Salvi, who received several accolades including the 'Shilp Guru award' last year, passed away about a month ago his brother Bharat has taken charge of the business. When contacted Bharat said, "We are self sufficient and do not need any kind of patent to exhibit our skills."

Bharat is at loggerheads with his cousin Ashok who runs a separate business with six members. Ashok Salvi's family is unwilling to join if Vadodara based Kanu Salvi is involved. Viral Salvi, who is Ashok's nephew said, "The kind of Patola that Kanubhai's family makes is not real. How can we allow our quality to be compared with theirs."

"On various occasions we tried to convince the four families and despite various attempts we have not arrived at an amicable solution," said Hema Patel, who is co-ordinating this project.

What Indira Gandhi wore and Sonia Gandhi still adores, is being knocked from door to door for survival. Kanubhai Salvi, based in Vadodara, said, "We have been doing door to door marketing from past 70-80 years but it was mainly to exhibit our new products as our reputation preceded us. Today, I have to go and find new customers by visiting their homes."

The lacklustre attitude of the government is also blamed for this, according to three Salvi families.

The Khemoo craft of Japan which is similar to Patola survived as the government started buying all the works that were produced at the price demanded by the craftsmen.

"Forty years ago the handicrafts department of Gujarat did a similar job but it has been stopped from a long time now," Kanubhai said. In order to protect the brand one of the eight procedures has to be done at Patan as per the GI norms.

According to Gupta, this art can survive for a maximum of 25-30 years. While some of the 'survivors' are unwilling to pass on this legacy to their children, others are left without any issues. The esteem that Patola held also reflects in the folklore of Gujarat.

There are about 8 procedures and with the involvement of 6-8 people, a Patola takes 2-4 months to complete, depending on the intricacies involved in its making.

"Since each process takes about 1-1.5 years to expertise, the new generation is not willing to accept it as their profession. Instead they are turning towards other professions," according to Hema.

"One of the reasons for the declining popularity of the Patola is its high price which not everyone can afford and also the time spent for making a single piece," Hema explained.

"I will not teach this to my children this art as there is not much left in this profession. I myself wanted to pursue a different career but my grandfather forbade me. The government is also doing little to save us," Viral Salvi said.