Flaming pasta

Mystery Guest

At Bill Marchetti's new restaurant, the food may not always hit the spot, but the service certainly does.

All of last year, we'd been hearing about Bill Marchetti, the celebrity chef who'd bid adieu to the ITC Maurya to settle in Goa, returning to New Delhi "soon". Well, Marchetti is finally here with Spaghetti Kitchen, a brand new Italian restaurant (it has an outlet in Mumbai too), at Select Citywalk. Owned by Blue Foods, this has Marchetti playing consultant chef.

When we arrive for an earlyish lunch, the restaurant looks deserted. Some of the staff are fixing up the signboard above the entrance but usher us in eagerly.

I like the look "" a largish space with pretty glass, hanging lamps, two all-glass private dining rooms and enough light. The menu card leaves me impressed too.

A lot of what you'll find on five-star menus is here: Parma ham, New Zealand lamb chops, truffle oil and even an anti-pasti buffet (laid out for dinner). Prices seem moderate in comparison "" between Rs 150-200 for starters, Rs 300-500 for main course dishes.

For starters, I order house special parmesan cream cheese potatoes, which are baby potatoes, halved, and hit the right note, as does the Girellini di Pollo "" chicken served on a mash of spinach-corn. The portions are small, for one, and must be served plated as such (service staff, please note). I follow this up with a "cracker" crust pizza "" thin (there's a thinner version too) and crisp. The topping is pepperoni with truffle oil. Very unusual, very delicious, even though the flavours tend to clash a bit. But my pasta, penne in tomato-cream sauce with vodka, another house speciality, is certainly un-Italian. The spirit, being tasteless, colourless and odourless, is wasted. "But I can't taste any difference to what I do at home," I wail at the waiter who'd tells me my pasta would be flambeed. He immediately asks if he should take it away and spike it some more!

The lamb chops are disappointing too. Instead of juicy, well-done offerings, these come crusted in batter! Like KFC chicken. I tell the manager as much (they are particular about feedback). I don't think he understands but assures us it would be different the next time. And there's free dessert, plus a 10 per cent discount.

Score: 8/10. The restaurant is well-priced and affordable. And the service team makes up for any glitches with its attitude.