HIT THE ROAD: CHAMPANER

The relatively unpublicised town of Champaner lies east of Vadodara and is a great place to take in some exquisite architecture. Founded in the 8th century AD, the fortress city was captured and retained by the Rajputs until 1484 AD, when Sultan Mahmud Begda overran it.

Under his rule, it prospered into a wealthy city with magnificent buildings (of particular interest is the superb Jama Masjid). The fort is still inhabited by people and is well worth wandering around in for a couple of hours.

Nearby lies the hill of Pavagadh, on which is a ruined fortress in three levels (Humayun once led his men up the massive ramparts and captured the fort). There's also a Kali temple as well as some interesting Jain monuments here

Champaner is about 60 km north-east of Vadodara via Halol and the highway leading there is in excellent shape. The only place to stay is Gujarat Tourism's Hotel Champaner (Ph: 02676"�245641, Rs 300 onwards), which is a little run-down but quite acceptable for a short stay.

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