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Italian wines on our tables

THE WINE CLUB

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Alok Chandra New Delhi
Last Updated : Jun 14 2013 | 6:20 PM IST
The Italians probably have the greatest line-up of wines in India after the French, and given the popularity of Mediterranean cuisines, it is no wonder that we are finding that some very nice wines are available at the better restaurants.
 
Like their French counterparts, Italian wines rarely declare the grape on the label "" one is simply supposed to know that Barolo is made from the Nebbiolo grape, and Chianti from Sangiovese. Wine is produced in each of the 20 regions of Italy "" each region has a number of sub-regions, with distinctly different grape varietals.
 
The result is a wonderfully complex patchwork of wines, wine styles and producers that would take the true wine aficionado a lifetime to figure out "" one only has to visit the annual Vinitaly wine fair held every April in Verona to start appreciating how truly enormous this industry is in Italy.
 
Who has the most Italian wines in India?
 
When I last counted, Diva (the Italian restaurant in M Block Market, Greater Kailash, Delhi) listed 173 wines "" of which 63 were French and 42 Italian (and only eight Indian!) "" surely, a dead giveaway of drinking preferences. Of course, in Delhi we are spoilt for choice (as well we should be), so places like Olive Beach (Bangalore) have only 64 wines listed on their menu "" of which 16 are Italian. Of course, most restaurants are more restrained, and list 5-6 Italian wines, but this does no justice to Italian wines.
 
However, it is the large hotel chains that carry the widest selection of wines: the Taj Palace in Delhi boasts of over 250 wines, and its neighbour, the ITC Maurya claims to be touching 300!
 
What Italian wines are available today?
 
Italy is better known for its red wines, so it's no surprise to find that reds outnumber whites 2:1. At the entry level (below Rs 1,000 per bottle) we find Ruffino, Banfi, Danzante and Moletto "" fairly decent wines all, at reasonable prices. In the Rs 1,000-1,500 price range, we have a wide selection of Grandi Marchi wines from producers like Lungarotti, Antinori, Mastroberardino and Frescobaldi ""wonderful stuff, slightly pricey, but well-worth the cost.
 
It's above Rs 1,500 that we find the best wines: from producers like Pio Cesare, Gaja, La Brancaia and Marchesi di Barolo (as well as Ruffino & Antinori) and wines like the super Tuscans Sassicaia and Tignanello. These wines are expensive, their quality superlative "" and generally are only available in the hotels and best restaurants.
 
Of course there are many wines and producers not named above, and hundreds more waiting to enter the Indian market. As I keep saying, "It's early days as yet", and we're going to see the number of wine labels double again in the next few years "" this should increase choice and reduce prices.
 
We'll drink to that. Cin cin, caro amico!

(alok@gryphonbrands.com)

 

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First Published: Nov 10 2007 | 12:00 AM IST

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