Kathman-do

HIT THE ROAD

Kathmandu?! It's in another country, we hear you say. True, but with its open border, exotic past and stylish present, the capital of the Kingdom of Nepal is well worth the long drive.

Once a hippie destination in the free-love era, Kathmandu has burgeoned into a busy metropolis, buzzing with Chinese bikes and Maruti taxis against a backdrop of distant peaks (including Mount Everest).

Walking through Hanumandhoka Durbar square, a complex of magnificent temples and palaces and a World Heritage Site, is instant time-travel, with clouds of pigeons and ornately decorated cycle-rickshaws milling around.

Nearby Thamel is a popular hippie hangout, all narrow lanes and bazaars and packed with character. To the east of the city is the Boudhnath Stupa, where streamers of prayer flags flutter from the grand octagonal structure. There's plenty of fancy restaurants and bars to comfort the 21st century traveller too.

Kathmandu is 500 km from Patna, which is 560 km from Kolkata. Take NH2 through Dhanbad, branching off to Patna and then on to the border on NH28.

The road from Birganj to Kathmandu is very good and extremely picturesque. You don't need a visa to enter Nepal, but carry photo-ID and original vehicle documents. Try Hotel Royal Gorkha (Ph: 977-1-255524), which is good value at Rs 500 onwards.

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