On the chaat walk

Evergreen Sweet House is the linchpin of Delhi's pleasant Green Park market, which has the great asset of a broad and pedestrian-friendly pavement sweeping along its entire length.

Evergreen, known for its sweets, Indian fast food and namkeens, has been here since 1963, when it was a much more modest establishment.

"Now it's a big joint where you get almost all your requirements," says Pramod Sharma, products development and marketing manager, exaggerating only slightly.

Evergreen was and still is a "joint family affair". It was founded by Radhakrishnan Chopra, passed into the hands of his sons, and now his grandchildren run it, "working to maintain the same standards".

But not the same products. "Now people are very calorie-conscious and short of time since they travel a lot," says Sharma, so they need food "to take with them, which is light and stays fresh".

Evergreen has a new range of instant packaged foods, including instant bhelpuri, instant golgappas, instant "Calcutta special jhalmuri"... and is moving into microwaveable Indian meals for the American market. "We invite suggestions," adds Sharma, "no matter how weird."

Compared to Bikanervala or Haldiram's, Evergreen has been slow in expanding beyond home base. Now, however, there are plans to spread out across the NCR with restaurants and retail partnerships.

Yet the link with home ground remains strong. "After the sealing drive the market has lost its colourful mood," Sharma says.

"People used to enjoy their evenings here. We had a chaat counter outside but now it's all indoors. Weekends, it used to be a huge fanfare. It's not the same now. In all honesty, I feel bad."