Ozzie selections

THE WINE CLUB

One of the most problematic issues in writing on anything is how to say something that has not been said before. When wrestling with this, I was struck by how the imported wines available in major Indian cities are quite different, and that few people really know what is available where, and why.

For example, Bangalore has an abundance of Australian wines "" over 45 labels at last count. No, this has nothing do with Bangalore being closer to Oz-land than Delhi or Mumbai; it's because Metro Cash & Carry (the b2b store) imported two containers of the stuff last year.

Delhi has the largest repertoire of imported wines "" principally because of the wide range demanded by embassies and star hotels, but these are either for restricted use or expensive.

Happily, imported alcoholic beverages have just become available in (selected) retail shops, although I suspect that the grey channels will continue to play a significant role in providing many Delhi-ites with their tipple for some time to come.

It's in Mumbai that we get the largest number of wines available in both retail shops as well as hotels and restaurants "" with Sula's range of imported wines leading the pack (nearly 40 labels from all the wine-producing countries), but also some great stuff (Yalumba, Terrazas, Casa Lapostolle) from Moet & Chandon and many, many other labels from smaller vendors.

As may be expected, imported wines available in Goa are a subset of Mumbai "" with a bow to its colonial heritage by way of a range of low-priced Portuguese wines not available elsewhere.

The only imported wines available in all cities are the range from the Ernst & Julio Gallo "" so, having tantalised you with the differences, let's see what these wines from California are all about.

Top of the heap is the E&J Gallo Sonoma County Chardonnay and the E&J Gallo Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon: though expensive at over Rs 1,500 per bottle, both are award-winning wines that can be confidently served to even the most discriminating of guests, with the firm expectation of accolades about the wine quality. The Chardonnay is not too dry but is crisp and well balanced, and exhibits complex fruit aromas with subtle spice notes on the palate.

The CS is big and full-bodied (don't you love that term, guys!) with lovely aromas of fruit and spice and a depth of flavour that lingers long after the last drop has gone down one's gullet.

Then there are the Turning Leaf range of wines (we're still with E&J Gallo): somewhat more approachable at about Rs 1,100 per bottle, but with many qualities (and awards) of wines that are much more expensive.

In addition to a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, there is also a Merlot and a Zinfandel "" the last has the most intriguing peppery and spicy taste, and to my mind does a great job complementing many Indian dishes that would shout down most other wines.

Rather cleverly, the company also has wines positioned at Rs 900/bottle (Sierra Valley range) as well as Rs 700 (Carlo Rossi) "" however, these are much inferior to our champions above and the true connoisseur would be somewhat disappointed in comparison "" but, after all, "you gets what you pays for".