India’s an important addition to the menu of Michelin star chefs.
It is yet to shake off the publicity blitz from two years ago when former Philippines’ president Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and her entourage reportedly ran up a dinner bill of $ 20,000 in the midst of the recession. And we don’t know how much of its legendary theatrics we’ll get to see. But Le Cirque’s upcoming launch in the Leela Palace in New Delhi this summer only confirms a larger trend —top international chefs are visiting the country to tap into the growing market for luxury dining here.
While expat chefs have been common enough at restaurants, what’s new is the top names India is now attracting. Last year, Mumbai saw Kittichai, the New York-based celebrity Thai chef, bringing in his contemporary restaurant Koh. There was also Vineet Bhatia, who’d migrated to London in the early 1980s, returning to start two new contemporary Indian restaurants. And Nobu, the god of contemporary Japanese, has reportedly expressed his interest to visit India.
That’s not all. Between December last and January this year, as many as three chefs helming Michelin star-winning restaurants in Europe turned up in Delhi. (Michelin’s revered red guides publish a list of non-, one-, two- and three-starred restaurants in different cities around the world annually yet.) Diners at the Oberoi (Travertino), The Taj Palace (Orient Express) and the Hyatt (La Piazza) had the opportunity to sample meals whipped up by these top chefs. “We did really well with the promotion, with people flying in from Mumbai and other cities,” says a spokesperson at the Oberoi, adding that this year too there are plans to bring other Michelin chefs.
There is also a team of top Singapore chefs visiting five different cities in a tie-up with ITC Hotels. The chefs will showcase Singapore cuisine using Indian ingredients, something they’ve been researching, no doubt in a bid to reach out to the Indian market. Besides, there’s the Flying Culinary Circus looking India-ward. Comprising four young Norwegian chefs, the team flies around the globe to cook at exclusive events. “We have now been in 36 different countries, in every continent except South America,” they said in an email, adding they’d like to come to India soon.
It is obvious why these chefs are making a beeline for India. With an economy growing rapidly and a well-travelled middle-class eager to spend, the country presents a market that cannot be ignored. This growth in consumption is in contrast to the West. “I was in Europe recently and the picture has changed drastically from four years ago,” says Bakshish Dean, corporate chef with the LiteBite group. Dean says he observed diners sharing maincourses and being “very careful” of restaurant spends. However, there is consensus that the market for formal, luxury dining is still nascent in India. “What I observed is that people like more casual formats here,” says chef Igor Macchia, who runs a one-star Michelin restaurant in Torino, and was at the Hyatt’s La Piazza last month
While most of the visiting top chefs at the moment come in through marketing tie-ups to provide mutual brand visibility, under exchange programmes, or simply on working holidays (India is a popular destination), top international chef who work under contracts at big restaurants and hotels generally draw Rs 5-7 lakh a month. By comparison, an Indian executive chef with 10-15 years experience gets just Rs 1.5-2 lakh. Yet, Indian hoteliers and restaurateurs are often ready to shell out this difference to ensure branding and good staff training.
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The danger is that once they leave, a restaurant’s standing can come crashing down. In contrast, chefs visiting for short-term promotions spell only gain since they don’t charge a fee but are keen to enter into marketing tie-ups with Indian chains to enhance their visibility here.
For the consumer? A tasting meal at a Michelin star restaurant in Europe can cost you ¤180-320 (Rs 10,980-Rs 19,520) per head. “If you are getting a comparable experience in India for Rs 6,000 per head, it is a steal,” points out Dean