Surprisingly South African

THE WINE CLUB

The first time I tasted South African wine was in 1987 when a bunch of us from United Breweries had gone down to Mauritius for a beer conference.

Even though the wines were served by tap, they were to my (then) untrained palate smooth and easy-to-drink, with a pleasing bouquet and a lingering aftertaste, and one remembers thinking what a sensation they would be if available "back home" (no doubt the Sega dancers and the Elysian setting helped).

Of course, this was years before South Africa came "out of the cold" in 1994, and in any case since wine imports were liberalised in India only in 2001, there was no question of getting to sample any of their wares. The question is, how good are South African wines, really?

A little research reveals that wines started being made there way back in 1655, that they now have 2,50,000 acres of vineyards, and that some 4,500 wineries produce nearly 700 million litres of wines which are marketed out of about 500 wine cellars.

That more white wines (mostly Chenin Blanc) are consumed there than red "" although that's changing fast. And that their "indigenous" grape variety (Pinotage) evolved from Pinot Noir and Cinsaut grapes just 60 years back.

What's available in India is a limited range of this prodigious quantity: Zulu Pinotage from Nelsons Creek (Rs 450) is quite drinkable, while the range of two whites and two reds from the giant Distel company under the Two Oceans label (Rs 700-750) are somewhat better.

The Pinotage, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from the relatively acclaimed Nederburg Estate are generally available only in the star hotels and best restaurants, as are the wines from Rupert & Rothschild.

Given the distance to India, the high customs duties and the complexity of local markets, it's no surprise that South African winemakers are concentrating their attention elsewhere.

One really wishes that some of their better wines (from wine cellars like Kanonkop, Fairview, Vergelegen, Jordan, or Springfield) find their way into India, and that their trade promotion people sponsor visiting delegations of winemakers along the lines of what the Aussies do so effectively.

Perhaps the King of Good Times will buy up a few wineries "down there" and give us the real taste of Africa "" apart from tantalising us with images of the beauties shot on his game reserves.

Or perhaps we'll just join the Boer forefathers of South Africa in wishing you Gesondheid (which is "to your health" in Afrikaans).

(al_chandra@vsnl.net )