Sushi virgins no more

Imagine a thali, except in the form of a box-tray with internal dividers. Replace the chaas with miso soup, the mini samosas with tempura, the pickle with wasabi and shoyu, the khhichdi with sushi rice.

Easy to conjure up? It's even easier on the palate. Mumbai's multi-ethnic diners are being wooed by the Bento Box, out to prove a point that Japanese food is so much more multi-faceted than the standard sushi and sashimi implications.

Tetsuma, the six-month-old Japanese eatery in Colaba, was the first to dish it up. More importantly, according to business head of Tetsuma, Samir Chabbria, they've made Japanese food, long tagged elitist, accessible.

"We wanted the Bento box to be the best possible value-for-money Japanese meal in the city," he says, referring to the pricey precedent set by forerunners like Taj Mahal's Wasabi by MoriMoto and Tiffin at the Oberoi. Tetsuma's Bento boxes start at Rs 500, although for the deluxe Signature Bento, complete with New Zealand lamb chops and Black Cod, it'll be Rs 800.

Bento Boxes do come as a relief for the adventurous foodie put off by hefty bills. "It's also a fabulous way to get acquainted with Japanese food for the first time," says Mrudula Nair, promoter of Origami, that has also introduced the Bento concept.

She's speaking of the various kinds of food that sit in their own little compartments (also great if you don't like your foods to mix). The mainstay of the meal is still cold sticky rice; there are side dishes too, which can include meat, fish, eggs, tofu, fruit and vegetables, all presented in bite-size form for handy chopstick action.

There are supposed to be fixed ratios for various food types to maintain dietary balance, but these restaurants seem to take liberties with that.

Just like most things Japanese, Bento Boxes are a sensory delight. The aesthetic, someone said, is based on a kind of compact cuteness. The boxes themselves vary from disposable plastic to delicately handcrafted lacquer ware. The purpose is traditionally for take-away although they're still only served at restaurants here.

Nair says she's increasingly surprised by diners these days who seem to know an awful lot about Japan's food traditions. At Tetsuma, customers knock back as many as 150 shots of Sake on a weekend; even Sapporo beer doesn't draw a "what's that" query these days.

"There are so many Indian diners who come in and ask for Japanese garlic," adds Chef Hemant Oberoi, grand chef, Taj group of hotels.

Oberoi's baby, Wasabi, may have set the standards but making the flavours approachable are restaurants like Origami and Japengo (where maki rolls share space with burgers and mezzes) that are located in shopping malls.

Even Mumbai's delicatessens and hypermarkets contribute with their shelf space happily stocking Japanese dry food products. Sante in Pali Mala has at least three shelves full "" from Sake to Soba noodles to Nori seaweed.

Oberoi, however, wouldn't be seen purchasing ingredients for Wasabi locally. "Sushi rice can be bought at $25 a kilo or $5 a kilo. Our customers know what our choice would be," he says amused by "copycats" who've mimed not only their entire menu but also "proudly announce they offer it at half of Wasabi's price".

Whether you prefer the exclusivity of Wasabi or a quickie meal of maki rolls in between some intensive shopping, the fact is that not only is Japanese food gaining universality, it's also growing up. And everyone's invited.