The first in a monthly series that will explore lesser known aspects of some of the world’s best known cities.
One of the most vibrant and culturally influential cities in the world, London deserves to be explored beyond its restaurants and shops. The British have painstakingly preserved their history and architecture, listed buildings and mounted blue plaques where noteworthy people lived. Watching a Shakespearean play at The Globe, strolling through Chelsea Physic Garden or riding in a ‘hackney carriage’ cab can instantly spirit you into a bygone era.
Exploring some of the less-obvious destinations in London can be truly rewarding, and here are just a handful of London’s hidden delights…
LONDON WALKS
This company has mastered the art of the guided walk to perfection. Not only are they an excellent introduction to the city at large, but they also focus on famous characters, authors, musicians and institutions like pubs. The repertoire is endless. They range from historic walks around old Westminster to exploring neighbourhoods like Kensington, Camden town or Little Venice. The two-hour long walks are lively and full of information, often conducted by historians, actors and writers. There is never a dull moment. On a walk through the neighbourhood of Belgravia, the guide regaled us with vignettes of ‘semi-attached couples who live in semi-detached houses’ and of residents who ‘live in squares and love in triangles’. The ‘Jack the Ripper’ walk conducted by Donald Rumblew is particularly sought after.
Info: www.walks.com.
Cost per person 7 pound. Private walks can be organised ahead of time for a charge of 100 pound.
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The meeting point is usually at a tube station near the walk.
BOROUGH MARKET
Borough Market is not just a treasure trove for food lovers, but also a hip destination. Here you can select raw ingredients and eat cooked meals at many stalls. Celebrity chefs can be seen rooting around. The selection of products is vast and sophisticated. Several cuisines are represented — French, German, Greek, Indian, Italian, Middle-Eastern, Malaysian, Thai and Vietnamese. Most stalls have tasting trays on their counters, and a great part of the fun is to graze.
A gastronomic voyage includes fresh fruit smoothies, the grilled chorizo and red pepper sandwich from Brindisa, chocolate tarts and a selection of cheeses from the Swiss highlands. The Cool Chile Co. sells Mexican and Central American products such as corn tortillas, and chocolate with chilli. Borough Market is encircled by popular restaurants and luxury food shops such as Monmouth coffee, Konditor and Cook and Neil’s yard dairy. Go early, as it gets crowded by lunchtime.
Info: Southwark Street; Tube: London Bridge
Open: Friday — Noon-6pm; Saturday — 9am-4pm
HOLLAND PARK
Holland Park, tucked away between two residential areas, is one of London’s most romantic parks. It was opened in 1952 on what remained of the 50-acre grounds of Holland house after the London Blitz. There are many organised events here such as bird-watching walks, tree-walks and even late evening bat-watching. Its charming Japanese section, Kyoto Garden, is undeniably one of London’s most peaceful spots. Laid out several years ago for the Festival of Japan, specialists were flown in from Kyoto to design it. There are many varieties of acer trees around a peaceful pond animated with koi carp. A narrow, paved walk leads past a thundering waterfall, across a bridge, along gnarled rocks, bamboo fountains and granite lanterns.
Peacocks steal the show with a spectacular display in the Italian formal gardens. In the summer you can catch some of the best opera performances here. Info: Between High Street Kensington and Notting Hill Gate
CANALSIDE WALK
A delightful way to spend an afternoon in London is to walk along the canal or glide in a gondola-shaped boat from Little Venice to Camden market with the option of stopping at the Regents Park Zoo on the way, if you’re with kids. The canal was made in the 1760s to transport heavy goods on barges from the Thames in London to Edinburgh in Scotland, 2,500 miles away. A brilliant idea at that time, it brought unprecedented prosperity to the areas it bisected. Horses walked on the towpath on the sides, pulling barges full of stone, bricks and timber. Once they arrived at their destination, they loaded their goods on to horse carriages for delivery to shops and warehouses. Now a charming relic, this is a venue for Londoners to enjoy the outdoors. Picturesque boats line the canal; while some of them are homes, others have been turned into restaurants, theatres and galleries.
Info: Little Venice. The nearest tube station is Warwick Avenue.
MEWS HOUSES
Dotted around London’s older neighbourhoods and tucked away behind grand squares and elegant homes, one can find quaint cobbled streets with Mews houses that evoke the past centuries when horse-drawn carriages clipped along narrow lanes and disappeared into the pea soup fog. These tiny houses were once the stables to adjoining manor houses. Thanks to London’s zoning laws, they have not been pulled down. On the contrary, they tend to be listed buildings which hold on to their well-worn bricks, coach doors, hay-loft winches, foot scrapes and cast iron drainpipes. There tends to be a neighbourly spirit in the Mews, and they are often communally planted and maintained. Artists, designers and architects often use them as studios. Some particularly quaint ones are Kynance Mews, Grosvenor Crescent Mews, Doughty Mews, William Mews, Holland Park Mews, Shrewsbury Mews and the Royal Mews.
COLLINGE & CLARK BOOKSHOP
A short walk from Euston/St Pancras is the Collinge & Clark Bookshop right opposite the popular tapas bar, the Norfolk Arms. Straight out of a Dickens story, the shop is a treasure-trove of rare books, fine prints and also a selection of books on the history of design publishing and printing as well as unusual books from private presses.
Info: 13, Leigh Street, WC1H 9EW
Phone +44 207 387 7105
ELEPHANT PARADE
Londoners are viewing their city afresh now that 250 beautifully painted elephants are scattered about on its streets, parks, museums, shops and businesses. They will all disappear at the end of July, just as they are disappearing in the forests of Asia, to be auctioned at the Chelsea Royal Hospital Grounds on July 3. The funds raised will be sent to Asia to aid the elephants.
Info: www.elephantparade.org
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