The natural alternative

Though Mira Kulkarni has built a business around herbal products that uses Ayurvedic ingredients, she's quick to clarify that the notion of "pure Ayurveda" isn't as attractive as it sounds.

"Untreated Ayurveda products are undoubtedly beneficial," she says, "but they aren't always user-friendly. For instance, a 'pure Ayurvedic' oil can take over two hours to get off."

Which is why Forest Essentials, the company set up by Kulkarni in 2000, doesn't brand itself as traditional Ayurveda.

"We treat products in such a way that they retain their natural benefits but are also a pleasure to use," she says.

Beauty products with herbal properties are establishing a niche for themselves as relatively small players ride on word-of-mouth publicity to share market space with established companies.

Forest Essentials, for instance, is now setting up its own stores; following the recent launch of a store in Khan Market, Delhi, a new one is being opened in Mumbai this month, and another should follow in Kolkata by the end of the year.

"The shop-in-shop concept didn't work well for us," says Kulkarni. "We want proper branding and personalised attention, and own stores are a better option."

Vikram Goyal of Kama Ayurveda doesn't see it that way. "Shop-in-shops give us wider distribution," he says, and accordingly Kama's products are sold in stores like Ebony, Lifespring, 98.4 , and even The Oxford Bookstore, which, Goyal says, "is likely to have the kind of cultured, upmarket clientele we're looking at".

Kama Ayurveda started operations as a joint venture with the Coimbatore-based Arya Vaidya Pharmacy.

One of the things different companies agree on is that some products, by their very definition, can't be purely herbal.

"No cream is purely ayurveda," says Kulkarni, while Goyal admits he's often surprised by customers coming up to him and asking for chemical-free shampoos.

"Such products are detergent-based and have to contain chemicals," he says. "At best, we can increase the proportion of ayurvedic content."

Spas and hotels account for the bulk of clients for herbal products. "Around 50 per cent of our retail business is through hotels," says Goyal.

There are no hard-and-fast rules though: "You might imagine that soaps costing Rs 70 would be bought only by customers in the upper end of the market," says Kulkarni, "but that isn't necesarily the case. Even middle-class buyers are willing to spend a certain proportion of their incomes on products that will provide health benefits."

Exports are on the upswing too "" around 30-40 per cent of Kama Ayurveda's products are exported to countries like Canada, Italy, Australia and the UK.

Forest Essentials' exports are relatively low but Kulkarni expects them to increase.

"Quality control standards are much higher overseas than in India," she says, "so you'll sometimes find companies selling a completely different range of products abroad."

Is customisation required for foreign markets? Fortunately, says Kulkarni, the Indian market is varied, with completely different skin types across the country.

"If you're retailing across India, you won't need to customise for other countries," she says.

Some herbal products in the market

Kumkumadi beauty fluid: contains extracts of Indian madder and the banyan tree. Sandalwood, lotus and vetiver cool, cleanse and help clear blemishes.

Soap-free face cleanser Mridul: a non-drying formulation of herbs, cereals and pulses which can be used as a daily alternative to soap.

Rose and Marigold Dial Action Day Moisturiser: contains plum oil, rice bran oil and shields the skin from UV rays and dryness. Best for dry skin; for oily skin the Lavender and Neroli Dual Action Day Moisturiser can be used.

Japapatti hair oil: has rich coconut milk combined with pure coconut oil, hibiscus and japapatti leaves.