Those magnificent reds

THE WINE CLUB

Let's talk about the "lesser-known reds", which have emerged as major varietals, against the very best that the "noble" French-origin grapes can do.

Over the years every wine-producing country or region has developed red wine grapes that have become the signature grapes for that region: Italy is known for Sangiovese; Spain has the Tempranillo grape; California developed Zinfandel (and made Pinot Noir famous); South Africa swears by Pinotage; Chile talks about Carmenere and Argentina the Malbec grape.

"Okey dokey", you might be thinking. "So this chap's now scraping the barrel "" he's throwing obscure grapes at us!" Not true "" each grape is big where it is primarily grown.

Sangiovese is, of course, the grape that produces Chianti "" one of the most well-known wines from Italy, grown on over 2.50,000 acres. The vine itself is of ancient local origin "" it's the principal grape of central Italy (Tuscany), also used to make Brunello as well as the "Supertuscans".

Its wines are inherently acidic and tannic, but the best Chiantis ("Classico") display notes of herbs, tobacco and leather (apart from fruit) and are a treat. India now has a goodly number of Chiantis available "" the Ruffino (Rs 1,100) is widely available, and if you can get hold of anything from the Antinori stable (Rs 1,250-2,300) they're well worth it.

Tempranillo is Spain's answer to Cabernet Sauvignon, and makes deep-coloured, long-lasting wines with spicy, tobacco and strawberry bouquets that, when blended with other local grapes, give us the Rioja and Ribera del Duoro wines. The Riojas from Marques de Caceres (Rs 1,100) and the Miguel Torres portfolio (only in hotels) are some of the Spanish wines already here.

Zinfandel was transplanted from Europe to North America in the early 1800s, and has only recently been found through DNA fingerprinting to be the same as the Primitivo grape of southern Italy "" doubtless carried by early immigrants.

The grape makes aromatic and alcoholic red wines, as well as sweet and fragrant Rose's (called "blush Zinfandel" or the somewhat misleading "White Zinfandel"), and has adapted readily to the warm temperate climate of Nashik and Sangli to become one of the most widely planted red wine grapes in India.

White Zinfandels are made by both Sula and Indage (Ivy), as well as by new wineries like Sankalp (Vinsura) and Flamingo: at a recent horizontal tasting of local Rose wines I was blown away by Flamingo's offering "" roses and peach. Grab it if you can find a bottle.

Red Zinfandels are on offer from Sula, Sankalp and Flamingo "" all tend to be spicy, fruity and fairly well-balanced. Pinot Noir is actually one of France's noble grape varieties, best known as being one of the two principal grapes used to produce Champagne (the other is Chardonnay) as well as the grape behind red Burgundy.

However, varietals bearing the grape's name were a well-kept secret till the movie Sideways, which has seen a huge increase in consumer offtake of this wine. This is a cool-climate grape that's difficult to grow, and the wines tend to be either light-coloured and medium-bodied or silky, perfumed and expensive.

The Pinoyage is unique to South Africa as it was produced by crossing two other red grape varieties in the 1920s, but was treated quite disdainfully by most producers till fairly recently as being a "local" (against "noble") grape that produced coarse wines with a sweetish, paint-like pungency.

This has now been tamed "" the best Pinotages are tannic and oaky, with loads of fruit. The Two Oceans Pinotage (Rs 700 in Bangalore) is among the few available at retail, though the Nederburg Pinotage (Rs 850) and Wildekrans (Rs 1,150) are also imported.

Carmenere is an obscure grape thought to have died out in Bordeaux "" till it was discovered that what was thought to be Merlot in Chile was actually this.

The wine is darker and richer than Merlot, with more spice and coffee flavours; it's a pity the only Carmenere in India is a 2003 Reserva from Luis Felipe Edward "" oh, for a Terranoble Gran Reserva 2001.

Last but not least is Malbec, which originated in France but which has become the signature grape of Argentina, where it produces full, fruity, spicy reds with flavours of mulberries and blackberries.

Indage claims to produce an Ivy Malbec (Rs 440), but I'd rather spend Rs 1,150 for the Valdivieso Single Vineyard Malbec 2000, or Rs 1,500 for a Terrazas Alto.

(al.chandra@gmail.com)