Visit this quiet Himachali village before it becomes a tourist hotspot

Few have heard of Jibhi. Here's why it's best it stay that way

Clear sunshine streaming through the window, a cool breeze blowing in from the same source, an orchestra of birdsong just outside… It took a few disoriented seconds to realise I was not dreaming. I had escaped the city. I was in Jibhi.

The little village in Himachal Pradesh’s Tirthan Valley is set at a height of about 1,400 metres. It had taken us close to 15 hours to reach our homestay, primarily because we had decided to travel in a Volvo bus up (see box). But Jibhi’s clean air and relatively untouched natural beauty shamed us out of our exhaustion.

The homestay looked like a rectangular tree house with green and pink walls. Empty alcohol bottles, spanning the range from Thunderbolt to Jaegermeister, were strewn across the courtyard (not through drunkenness but by design). A cemented patio, from where one could see a terraced mountain and almost all of Jibhi, instantly became my favourite spot. As I entered, a tiny reception led to a sturdy, wooden ladder to the first floor. The childish delight I derived from climbing that ladder set the tone for my stay.

We headed to Cafe Reverberate, located just by the river and nestled sweetly in Jibhi’s green hills. An abode of hippie culture, a dark, smoke-filled cafe with low seating awaited us. Negi (no surname), a one-man show who is cook, server and owner all at once, is a great ambassador for the easy-going attitude of the locals. Fresh watermelon juice and toast with a generous topping of mozzarella were excellent accompaniments for mountain watching.

Himachali village Jibhi

Our host Sunny (no surname either), a well-read man in love with the idea of meeting people from around the world, shoved us into his red Alto, as we made our way to “Mini Thailand”. I didn’t know what to expect as the only detail Sunny divulged was that we could swim. Excited about swimming in the mountains, we made our way downhill. Through thorny bushes along a steep and slippery trail, we approached the entrance to a cave. And there it was, a beautiful gem of a pool sparkling and glinting with river water and greenery.

The flow of the river had been dammed by big boulders, creating a natural jacuzzi at one end. The other end had big boulders as well, causing the water to well between the boulders. No fear of about getting swept away with the river. The water was ice-cold but the sun shone bright overhead. Exhausted and content after a swim, I absorbed the beauty, surrounding sounds and vitamin D perched on a boulder.

Sunny suggested driving to Jalori Pass for a trek. An hour away from Jibhi and at a height of more than 10,000 feet, this short and fairly easy trek gives a 360-degree view of the region.  At one point during the trek, I imagined the mountains moving towards me. Optical illusion, tricks playing on a mind out of oxygen, whatever – the surreal moment only enhanced the experience.

 

The trek leads to Serolsar Lake and the Shringa Rishi temple which, according to a myth narrated to me by Sunny as we savoured our river trout in front of the nightly bonfire, was where Parvati and Ganga, Shiva’s wives, had a fight. The story goes that the women had gone to fetch water from this lake when Parvati quizzed Ganga on her relationship with Shiva. Ganga promptly told her that she was her sautan (“co-wife”), leading to further fireworks. A Himachali folk song called Dhuru Nacheya captures the spirit of this myth, and it then became our trip’s anthem, as we listened to it on loop.

Jibhi is a small place with a lot to offer -- tranquillity, tasty food, picturesque views, even super-fast connectivity. Visit soon, before it moves out of blissful obscurity into too-popular hotspot. And don’t tell too many people about it.

Getting there: Fly to Bhuntar in Kullu district (1hr 20min) and then cab to Jibhi (2hr). Or bus till Aut Tunnel (11 hr) and cab (1hr 20min).

Where to stay: Jungle Book (1, 2, 3, 4), each property offering a different experience. Book on AirBnb.

Where to eat: Hope Cafe, Cafe Reverberate

What to do: Visit Mini Thailand; do the Jalori Pass Trek; ask locals about the Crystal Mountain Trek; read; eat; drink