Back in real after virtual, FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week aims for runway hit

It’s time for the glitterati to descend on Delhi for India’s biggest fashion event.

After a virtual showing in March 2021, the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) have joined forces yet again to host FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week at the Dhyan Chand Stadium from March 23 to 27 in a fully physical avatar.

The industry has been on a roller coaster ride in the past two years. As the tactile display and physical purchase of couture took a backseat, a slew of corporate acquisitions kept businesses afloat. But now, it is time to sit up and take notice as young designers and industry stalwarts from all over the country strut their stuff.

Designer Rahul Mishra presented his collection at the grand opening on Tuesday night at the Italian Embassy.

A lot is lined up until the weekend. Young designers will have the ramp with various segments such as INIFD presents GENNEXT, Nexa presents Spotlight — which will showcase the label Two point Two by Anvita Singh — and FDCI x Pearl Academy Firstcut, featuring creations by students.

The extravaganza is set to go green on Day two, with a focus on sustainability and mark the return of the Circular Design Challenge presented by R|Elan in partnership with FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week and the United Nations Environment Programme. Another highlight of the day is RISE Worldwide X Fashion For Good, featuring designers like Divyam Mehta, Karishma Shahani Khan and Nitin Bal Chauhan.

“We are extremely excited to be hosting FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week in an on-ground format after two years of hybrid showcases. This schedule comprises one of the strongest curations ever of designers from across India,” said Jaspreet Chandok, head, RISE Fashion and Lifestyle.

Lakmé Fashion Week is jointly organised by RISE Worldwide and Lakmé.

Chandok added that since its inception, the fashion week has championed bringing to the fore unique innovations, partnerships, and solutions — effectively helping diverse brands connect with the right audiences. “This season, too, the platform will see a robust schedule. It will also offer two showcase areas (runway and atelier) for designers and continue to champion sustainability through path-breaking initiatives while spreading messages of inclusivity and diversity,” he said.

Echoing him, FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi said in an email: “FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week continues to be an epitome of positivity, as it beckons effective co-operation between powerhouses in the industry, and as we bring meaningful initiatives to the fore to drive growth in the post-pandemic world.

“Our belief is that the coming together will provide one face of the fashion industry to the world as we endeavour to create global brands of the Indian fashion designer.”

The excitement is palpable as designers scurry for fittings with last-minute nips, tucks and stitches.

“We are constantly doing fittings on models seeing what the clothes are exactly going to look like and how they will walk in real life,” said ace designer Tarun Tahiliani.

A sketch by Tarun Tahiliani

He joked that he has complicated his life because his son is getting hitched this week and so two big events have coincided to cause “some havoc”. “But nothing crazier than ever because we planned for it (the fashion show),” added Tahiliani, who will be closing the penultimate day with his luxury prêt collection.

His ready-to-wear collection, Global Indian, is a sleek new assortment with modern cuts and details, unusual textures with generous use of prints, zari threads and resham. “We wanted a modern collection, which speaks to a future generation that is confident and experimental in its approach, and so we have tried to achieve a balance between India’s rich craftsmanship and accessibility and comfort,” Tahiliani told Business Standard.

A sketch by Tarun Tahiliani

“Fashion weeks are always a rollercoaster ride but I love the thrill. These are the days that give us all the energy for the coming season. I am lucky enough to have a great team to be able to go through this week (almost) smoothly,” said Ujjawal Dubey of the Antar-Agni brand. Dubey will be showcasing his collection on the second day in collaboration with Adidas Originals.

With a team of 15-17 kaarigars and weavers, the collection promises bold juxtapositions with a sense of tremendous change. “We are also very excited with the play of colour and hope to bring in a new language to Antar-Agni that people can resonate with,” said Dubey.

In his seventh fashion week outing, Punit Balana will be debuting his Laxmi collection, which takes inspiration from the journey of a young, urbane, cosmopolitan girl returning to India to attend a friend’s wedding.

“After two years, the fashion week is back in a physical avatar and feelings are running high. There’s a lot of nervousness and anxiety coupled with excitement. The fittings that I completed yesterday were very hectic, but I’m all set for the show now,” Balana told Business Standard over the phone.

The Laxmi collection will be a marriage of tradition and modernity, which will feature the roots of Rajasthan, replete with bold motifs in natural vegetable dye using Kalamkari and Ajrak techniques on luscious Chanderi silk, rendering a surrealistic vision with modern, edgy cuts and silhouettes.

Return to retail

As designers gear up for the five-day spectacle, many hope to translate the exposure into business.

“In the past two years, everyone has suffered business-wise. But as things are easing, everyone wants to get back to their shopping routines, markets are buzzing, weddings are happening, and international travel is set to open. So, I am hoping for some great business numbers in the coming two years,” said Balana, adding that he has plans to open new stores across India and is in talks for international collaborations.

Sethi added that the event has received much support from various brands to act as partners and to sponsor designer showcases.

A major chunk of the shows is backed by individual sponsors including premium Maruti Suzuki’s premium chain Nexa, eyewear brand John Jacobs and plus size clothing store aLL.

This season will also see the return of the FDCI Designer Stockroom to a physical format after two years. This B2C sale, hosting around 70 designers, will be open to the public on the last day of the event.

With RSVPs from around the globe including France, USA and Dubai, the stage is set for a stellar show.