Bo-Tai in Delhi: How much can a restaurant experiment with Thai food?

Strange as it may sound, Kalka Das Marg in Mehrauli could be mistaken for the Rue de Barres in Paris. With an assortment of chic designer boutiques, cosy Cafés and upmarket eateries nestled amidst monuments and ruins, this stylish stretch of road now has a new addition in Bo-Tai, a modern Thai bar and grill from the Massive Restaurants portfolio. The idea of opening a “progressive” Thai eatery came to restaurateur Zorawar Kalra nearly six months ago when he first saw the space. It finally led to a contemporary presentation of a cuisine, the potential of which has not yet been fully explored in the country. In a fresh twist, Bo-Tai has Chef Sahil Singh, who is also the executive chef at Pa Pa Ya, blending together bold Thai flavours with European grills.

 It is with expectations of such novel combinations that one walks into the restaurant, located just above a shopping arcade. You’ll be greeted with a wine wall that is visible from the stairs and features a curated selection of 101 fine wines. This space was designed by Super Potato Design, a company based in Japan and known for several international hospitality projects. The restaurant area is divided into two sections, both featuring stylish indoor seating and outdoor cabanas. There is an understated elegance to the décor, which, at no point, takes your attention away from what is on the menu. One can imagine this space in the daytime, flush with sunlight and ideal for a cosy brunch — though perhaps after the brutal summer simmers down.

 Coming to the food, it’s best to go beyond the obvious choices. Instead of the regular Thai curry and rice, opt for dishes that showcase the playful and inventive zeal of the chef. There are combinations of exotic meats, vegetables and carpaccio (a dish of raw meat or fish). The menu focuses heavily on raw food, a global trend in favour for being healthy and light. One of the must-haves is the carpaccio of Hokkaido scallops topped with Thai chilli, served with rambutan sorbet. If you’re up for it, do give the soft shell crab with dessicated coconut a try. In the grills section, the highlight is the duck and emmentalk rainerwrust with mashed potatoes quenelled. The idea is to break preconceived notions of Thai cuisine without treading into the realm of fusion, which Singh deems an “ugly” concept.

Don’t be intimidated by the carpaccio-heavy menu if you are vegetarian. From the well-balanced menu, try the smelted rice flour dumplings, first steamed and then pan-seared, lifted by a chilli tamarind relish. The crunch of the filling, made with chestnuts, corn and kaffir lime galangal, creates a delicious contrast of textures. Also interesting is the Bo-Tai take on the steamed popiah, rolls made with finely grated vegetables such as turnips, bean sprouts, beans, carrots and with a smattering of peanut. 

Bo-Tai’s is a healthier version that makes use of rice flour sheets instead of refined flour. One of my favourites was the jackfruit bao, with its eclectic mix of crunchy, tender, tangy, sweet and spicy flavours and textures. Round up the meal with a kabocha custard, served in half a tart shell, along with agar-agar jelly, with a sprinkling of aromatic kaffir lime zest.

 As one sits outside, the slight evening breeze and views of the softly-lit Qutub Minar add a dreamy touch to the setting. Inside, you can see the bar, where Dino Koletsas of London-based Dare Hospitality is busy training mixologists. Once with Artesian, winner of the world’s best bar title in 2011 and 2015, he has designed the cocktail menu, reinventing some popular ones such as Gin and Tonic, and New York Sour. I end up having the Bangkok Boulevard, a refreshing cocktail made with Monkey Shoulder, tropical vermouth, honey syrup and topped up with sparkling wine.
 

Bo-Tai opens on April 25. A meal for two, including food and drinks, costs Rs 3,500