Celebrating the Ramzan spirit with a walk from Jama Masjid to Matia Mahal

No self-respecting carnivore in Delhi can point to any one place as being the hot spot during the meaty month of Ramzan. My list of personal favourite foods in the city during this sacred time of fasting, prayer and reflection has only grown over the years — from discovering the life-enhancing mutton burra at the touristy Karim’s in Old Delhi and gorging on mouth-watering kababs at Ghalib’s in Nizamuddin to imagining heaven and coronary risks after a plate of nihari dripping with desi ghee in Zakir Nagar.

Yet, as I discovered this week, there is no better place than Old Delhi, especially the historic Jama Masjid, for iftar (post-sunset meal during Ramzan).

A colleague, who combines youthful exuberance with wise moderation in her eating choices, accompanied me on an iftar trail hosted by sightseeing agency India City Walks.

A family breaking its fast after the call for prayer | Photo: Sanjay K Sharma

The walled city of Old Delhi never fails to talk to us with its profusion of sights, sounds and smells. For a change, the nuggets of history fed to us by our guide became the hors d’oeuvre before we sat down in the mosque’s courtyard to join the faithfuls who had gathered to break their fast.

An architectural marvel, the 17th-century Mughal monument is a secular space that has spirituality etched into every stone. It was built over six years by 6,000 workers. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who constructed the mosque, asked the men why was it taking long. They replied that they recited The Quran before installing every stone, a practice that the ruler appreciated and asked to continue.

A man takes his first sip of water | Photo: Sanjay K Sharma

The Jama Masjid stands on an outcrop, placing it higher than the Red Fort facing it, to emphasise that the seat of the Almighty is above humans. Inside the prayer hall, where men rested or lay prostrate in the approaching dusk, our guide pointed to the patterns on the floor that resembled a musalla, or prayer mat. The emperor decided on the inlay on marble for those who couldn’t afford prayer mats. Women say quiet prayers in the courtyard.

The courtyard buzzed with a festive mood, with children running around groups of families and friends seated at their dastarkhan (meal setting). On one corner near the prayer hall, snacks and fruits were lined up in plastic cups for the poor, while a majority made their own arrangements.

A sweet shop in Matia Mahal | Photo: Sanjay K Sharma

As we sat down, our guide pointed to a section near us that is said to store relics of the Prophet Muhammad. Anticipation grew with the loudspeaker crackling with the imam’s call for the maghrib prayer (prayed just after sunset). A man on the terrace of the left gateway — also the one meant for commoners and overlooking the food bazaar — relayed the call with signals for devotees outside the mosque. A cracker was burst and hundreds of bulbs lit up the mosque’s towering façade. On cue, we gulped water and partook of dates to begin with, as the Prophet would. Aside from the energy-rich fruit, we were served banana, samosas and pakodas. My colleague and I decided to skip the samosas and brace ourselves for the main course.

Haji Mohd Hussain’s famous crispy chicken | Photo: Sanjay K Sharma

After exiting the mosque, our first stop was Qureshi Kebab Corner on Urdu Bazar Road. We ordered a plate each of chicken, mutton and buffalo seekh kebab and polished off the succulent, tender meat dunked in melted butter. The fifth generation of the family’s founder, who was fondly called “Chhote Kebabi”, now runs the stall that churns out the grilled blessings every evening. The Qureshis claim Gali Kababiyan, a lane in the maze of Matia Mahal which we turned to next, is named after the family.

We had another round of chicken, this time at the “KFC of Matia Mahal” — a shop called Haji Mohd Hussain. It has earned its sobriquet as the crispy chicken pieces — fried twice in a chickpea batter — can give KFC a run for its money. I was glad to know we wouldn’t be persuaded to sample staples such as biryani and qorma, as we were already feeling stuffed. So we readily accepted the velvety rich shahi tukda, followed by the pyaar mohabbat sharbat, a popular Old Delhi drink that mixes Rooh Afza, milk, water and tiny cubes of watermelon.

Qureshi Kebab Corner is run by the fifth generation of the family’s founder | Photo: Sanjay K Sharma

This visit introduced me to two shops further down Matia Mahal and beyond. The Haji Jameel Bakery offered the butter sheermal, a speciality that is a feather-soft flattened bun layered with dollops of butter and jam inside. We packed one each for home. A jalebi and samosa waited for us at Ameer Sweet House, but these weren’t the average ones. The samosa was stuffed with mawa (sweetened milk solids), while the jalebi was made of paneer that gave it a thick texture.

Our guide had one last surprise for us. We swallowed the fire paan, which has a burning camphor that leaves a smoky mint-like aftertaste, and escaped unhurt and overfed — with food and slices of history.

India City Walks is conducting iftar walks in Old Delhi till June 4. For details, visit www.indiacitywalks.com