How Sri Lanka is putting its troubled past behind with warm hospitality

'When in Sri Lanka, choose trains', says the author

At any given time, seven friends standing in a row trying to blow their noses in unison would have made for a comic scene. But there, on a palm-lined beach in Unawatuna, Sri Lanka, our earnestness was extreme and surely convincing.  

Our scuba suits, tighter than our skins, were reminders that we had to unlearn the ways of land-dwellers. The nose-blowing technique is one of the keys to surviving a quick trip underwater. Maybe it was the language barrier or just the giddy enthusiasm of first-time divers, but an important rule had been omitted in the briefing session: do not touch anything underwater. And when we did descend 10-12 metres, the urge to touch was consuming.

Much of the island nation has coral formations not far from the coast. And besides schools of tiny blue and purple fish, there are chances of spotting a shipwreck too, reminders of the country’s rich sea-trading past as well as conflict. As they lie unmoving on the ocean floor, these ships are also home to marine life. The ship I swam to was ghost-like, its ruins creating giant shadows for sea creatures to slip in and out of, some of whom didn’t mind our presence.

Scuba diving in Unawatuna | Courtesy: Mengjuan Li

But when a lionfish appeared with its array of spines and barbs, my diving instructor gestured the need to maintain distance. He then pulled me quickly away from what appeared to be a slow-moving stone. I later found out that the unsightly stonefish is among the world’s most venomous fish.

The previous day, we had gone straight from Colombo airport to Galle, a coastal city famous for its 16th-century Portuguese fort, enhanced by the Dutch in the 17th. A Unesco world heritage site, Galle is the very picture of old-world charm with its cobbled pathways and cycling-friendly streets.

Its laid-back vibe, combined with views of a turquoise harbour and Sri Lanka’s oldest lighthouse, was a perfect start to our journey. A full-grown monitor lizard walking out of the emerald waters was our first confirmation of starting out right. Then appeared the surreal sight of a majestic peafowl couple against an ocean backdrop. 

A Buddhist temple in Galle | Courtesy: Mengjuan Li

Galle isn’t a beach destination despite its crystal-clear waters. That doesn’t stop anyone. The water, regulated by a reef, is perfect for swimming. As we ventured closer to the corals, a large wave threw me off balance. While trying to rise, I felt pain shooting up my right foot. I had seen the sea urchins under the corals, but their long, black spines sticking out of my foot made my blood run cold.

In retrospect, this is funny because it was very hot. The effects of a single morning without sunblock affected us days after we were home, making aloe vera devotees of us as flakes of burnt skin continued to fall off our backs and foreheads.

The spikes on my foot led me to a hospital where the staff’s sympathy knew no bounds. “Ikiri, ikiri,” they chanted. Ikiri is Sinhala for sea urchin. Our conversation veered towards similarities between our countries, and we bonded over an old Indian show (Shanti), which was dubbed and loved overseas by someone who literally had my blood on her hands.

A peafowl against the ocean

Back among friends, we went to the Japanese Peace Pagoda in Unawatuna. The views of the Galle bay from here are stunning, with the sailboats moving gently along. The local story is that Hanuman dropped a chunk of the mountain containing the sanjivani herb at Una-watuna, which translates to “fell down”.

A walk along the scenic Jungle Beach is recommended. Here, young Sri Lankan men sing songs in Sinhala on the shore accompanied by drums. Those who don’t sing do cartwheels.

When in Sri Lanka, choose trains. If you take the afternoon train from Galle to Colombo, besides stunning views of the coast, you’ll see the sun as a golden yolk, turning the waters under it into a pool of molten gold.

Sri Lanka’s oldest lighthouse in Galle

We ate plenty of hoppers, coconut rice and curries, alongside stir-fried morning glory, but our primary nourishment came from fresh seafood, done well almost everywhere. This paired well with the slightly bitter Lion lager. I also enjoyed the earthiness of a local coffee brand, Harishchandra, over the popular Ceylon tea. 

In the evening, as we made our way to Mount Lavinia beach, the gentle winds blowing over the land were a reminder that love blooms here. This region hosts the gay pride festival every year. And it is here, over 200 years ago, that Sir Thomas Maitland, the second English governor of Ceylon, fell in love with a Portuguese-Sri Lankan woman, Lovina Aponsuwa, the area’s namesake.

Perhaps it was a fitting tribute to the island that our last evening was spent watching the sun melt into the Indian Ocean as two Buddhist monks walked the shore named after love.