Saurashtra emerging as bandhani fabrics hub

Saurashtra is emerging as a hub for the bandhani fabrics, which Gujaratis buy as an essential dress material during marriages.

The size of the bandhani market is estimated to be over Rs 100 crore in this region, providing employment to over 5,000 artisans. Over 70 per cent of the bandhanies manufactured in Jamnagar are sent to other states, while the rest is exported.

With the increasing popularity of bandhanies, several Internet portals are launched in the last few years for online booking. These bandhanies are priced between Rs 250 and Rs 15,000, depending on the design.

The main bandhani centres in Saurashtra are Jamnagar and Rajkot. The simple tie-and-dye patterns worked on the bandhanies used by different tribes are produced in a large number of centres.

"Jamnagar is well known around the world for its 'tie-dye' (bandhani) which is one of the most important textile traditions and a famous traditional Indian handicraft work. Fashion cloathings of Jamnagar are done by skilled artisans. This is a work of handicraft and no two products can be made exactly the same. So it can be said that each product is unique in its own way. Since bandhani or bandhej is a work of handicraft, even prices cannot be compared with other non-handicrafted fabrics," said Vibodh Shah of Mahavir Bandhani Wala, a trader in Jamnagar on Wednesday.

Various tie-dye (bandhej) products include sarees, chania choli, turban, dupatta, salwar kameez, scarves, hand-purse, and shawl among others.

One artisan in Jamnagar said, "This is done by dyeing sections of the saree in the desired colour with the use of a piece of a felt and then tying. The cloth is bleached and only the tied sections retain the colours. After this, the background colour is dyed and the finished bandhani emerges, with dark coloured dotted pattern on a light background."

This traditional technique for tying and dyeing which is followed in all the important centres of Saurashtra and Kutch and also in Rajasthan. Kutch also produces one of the finest bandhanis in India.

Mandvi and Bhuj are important bandhani producing centres. The Khatri community of dyers are known for their fine quality of work. They control the trade and the craft, purchasing and processing the material themselves.