Aditi Phadnis: Noisy and dirty, but celebrate the spirit

MY WEEK

I'm going to my second favourite city in the world, Patna! At my favourite time of year, May-June! Some things are the same "" very important people who are sidekicks of very important people trying to break rules, circumvent regulations, invent shortcuts. A man hollers on his mobile as the plane is about to take off, having left it behind at the security check (that delayed the plane by 30 minutes). The flight attendant's gentle ministrations are of no avail. He snarls at her: "do you know who I am?" She replies calmly: "Yes sir but this is a safety hazard". He shuts it in bad grace. We're still in Delhi. I want to be in Patna where it is summertime and the livin's easy...Maybe things have changed?

TUESDAY
Changed, did I say ? Always a chaotic town, it's become worse: roads are being built everywhere. In the process a deep pool of water caused by a burst sewage pipe has covered the road with sludge. But men are actually working on the roads. What's more, there is provision for footpaths as well. Wonder whose idea that was?

In other parts of India I have been called auntieji, mataji, amma and mey-dhumm (Ayodhya's rendering of Madam). There's a new one here: Mai-ji. Patna is so courteous it is almost unbearably poignant. People have so little and yet they are willing to give so much.

At 9.00 pm I go out to dinner, take a rickshaw. Unthinkable in the old days, there's a new spirit of cautious liberation in the air. Restaurants are full. The hotel is belting out music by Eminem, an odd choice to celebrate the birthday of two-year old Tavishi who is frightened by the music. But it is clear that a good time is being had by all.

WEDNESDAY
More good news. Bihar's finances are doing so well the state is going to ask for an increased Plan size, something I report enthusiastically. And, all 30 of the Super30 "" a set of socially backward, very poor students who have been coached for the IIT JEE "" have made it. Their teacher, Anand Kumar, is bursting with pride. The children "" one is the son of a nurse, another, of a clerk "" are excited beyond words.

THURSDAY
But here, violence is never far away. I am hurrying for an appointment when I see a man on a cycle cough. He dribbles blood from his mouth that covers the front of his shirt, quickly running down his chest in rivulets. Before I can raise an alarm a handful of people have gathered and a rickshaw is detailed to take him to a hospital nearby. Did he live or die? I don't know but I do know that earlier, it wouldn't have been the hospital for him: they never used to work.

FRIDAY
I look out and bid goodbye to the city and the voluptuous Ganga. It is noisy, charmless and dirty. But it has a spirit that one must celebrate.