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China's Sichuan cannot get enough spicy marinated rabbit heads

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AFP Chengdu (China)
Last Updated : Dec 28 2016 | 12:22 PM IST
Chinese diners greedily crack open delicate rabbit skulls and slurp down their contents, tucking into a delicacy so popular in one province that it has to import its supplies from France.
Sichuan is renowned for its spicy, peppery local dishes: one of its favourites are bunny brains, often eaten as a late night treat on the streets of its capital, Chengdu.
At the "Shuangliu Laoma Tutou", a well-known restaurant in the heart of the city, dozens of customers use their gloved hands to prise open the skulls covered in sauce, suck out the brain and nibble on the cheeks amid cries of satisfaction.
"If Sichuanese people don't eat spicy dishes every day, they're unhappy," said one 20-something woman surnamed Ma, as she dined with friends.
"I eat them at least once a week," she added.
Westerners often avoid animal parts - duck beaks, chicken feet, heads and tripe - that Chinese gourmets treat as delicacies.

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But even in China there is little appetite for rabbits' meat, much less their heads, which are overwhelmingly eaten in Sichuan, a remote province long isolated by mountain ranges.
The dish is a speciality of the region - rarely found outside of a few popular restaurants in Beijing and other major cities.
"Two out of three rabbit heads consumed in China, are eaten in Sichuan," said Wang Min, the manager of the Chengdu restaurant, adding that locals were proud of the snack.
"My parents and grandparents ate them. I've been enjoying them since my childhood", she said, adding the tradition goes back several centuries.
"My friends in Guangxi (a southern province) and elsewhere don't understand why we eat them," she said, adding "they can't stand the pepper."
In Wang's restaurant, head chef Yin Dingjun said the rabbit head recipe seemed simple but required a well- established technique.
"You have to drain the rabbits of their blood, then remove the guts" before marinating the head in a broth for several hours," he said.
"Diners then use their teeth to gnaw at the flesh."
Rabbits feature in Chinese mythology (a "jade rabbit" lives on the moon) and are regarded as cute by many young people rather than thought of as a delicacy, although in Sichuanese dialect eating rabbit head is slang for French kissing.

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First Published: Dec 28 2016 | 12:22 PM IST

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