Nobukazu Kuriki, who lost nine fingers on the mountain in 2012, is the only climber trying to scale the world's highest peak this year after an earthquake-triggered avalanche killed 18 people at base camp.
The April disaster saw hundreds of climbers abandon their bids to ascend the 8,848-metre mountain, marking a second spring season with virtually no one reaching the summit.
An avalanche in 2014 that killed 16 Nepali guides also sparked a shutdown that year.
He will ascend overnight into the "death zone" -- located above 8,000 metres, notorious for its difficult terrain and thin air -- and summit around dawn on Thursday, Gurung told AFP.
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Kuriki, who plans to summit alone without the aid of bottled oxygen, is making his fifth attempt to climb Everest, at a time when the risks are higher than usual because of regular aftershocks that increase the chance of avalanches.
The 33-year-old was forced to abandon his bid last month because deep snow made it difficult for him to climb quickly during the final stretch.
Mountaineering is a major revenue-earner for impoverished Nepal, home to eight of the world's 14 peaks over 8,000 metres.
But the April 25 earthquake which killed nearly 8,900 people raised fears for the immediate future of the tourism industry.