It's in this unexpectedly animated atmosphere that the Jewish community in northern Portugal, wiped out in the 15th century, is currently undergoing a rebirth, welcoming Jews who feel threatened in Europe and elsewhere -- some coming from as far as India.
"Anti-semitism is growing in Europe but Porto seems to be a safe haven. It's good to be a Jew here," said Sam Elijah, who heads a community that numbered only 20 four years ago.
Now, the community -- which is orthodox but is open to all Jews -- does not hesitate to advertise the attractions of the city abroad and anticipates a big boost in numbers in coming years, in particular from France and Turkey.
The Zekris, a family of four, who did not want to give their full names, took the plunge in August 2015. They are among 50 French Jews already settled in Porto, Portugal's second city and the largest in the country's north.
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After living in Israel, the family moved to Toulouse in France to "support the community after the terrorist attacks of March 2012".
"We experienced anti-semitism," said Mr Zekri, adding that it was also the reason for the family's move to Portugal.
On this Friday in September, the family is working hard to prepare the Sabbath, during which Jewish tradition forbids work, driving or the use of electricity.
The cooking is done in advance, the timers set to turn off the lights at the exact hour.... "It's always a bit of a rush, but afterwards it's total rest," adds Mr Zekri.
"Here I stroll carefree in a kippah (a small Jewish skullcap) and quite often people stop me and tell me 'We love Jews'," he said.
At the end of September, the first family from Turkey is due to arrive thanks to a new law, which came into force in 2015 offering Sephardi Jews Portuguese nationality by way of reparation for the expulsions and persecution suffered by their ancestors at the end of the 15th century.
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