He is the only man ever to have scaled K2 three times, but Fazal Ali's achievements have gone largely unrecognised, like those of many of his fellow porters who risk life and limb on Pakistan's highest peaks.
As one of the few elite porters in the country specialising in high-altitude expeditions, the 40-year-old has spent nearly two decades on Pakistan's deadliest slopes -- plotting routes, lugging kit and cooking for paying clients.
At 8,611 metres, K2 is not quite as high as Mount Everest, which stands at 8,848 metres. But its technical challenges have earned it the nickname "the Savage Mountain" and dozens have lost their lives on its treacherous, icy flanks.
Ali conquered K2 in 2014, 2017 and 2018 -- all without additional oxygen.
"He is the only climber with this achievement," said Eberhard Jurgalski from Guinness World Records.
While foreign climbers have won plaudits for their feats, Ali and his colleagues are overlooked, even among the mountaineering community.
"I am happy," Ali told AFP. "But I am also heartbroken because my feat will never be truly appreciated."
"When they arrive, they are full of goodwill, they make many promises," Ali said. "But once they've achieved their goals, they forget everything."
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