High on energy

A combination of cuisine, music and design puts Pa Ya Ya on the list of must-visit eateries in Delhi

If you were at the Asian Hawker’s Market in Delhi in October last year, you couldn’t have missed the long queues at the Pa Pa Ya kiosk, with diners waiting eagerly for the signature chilli hoisin duck dog. The juicy moist duck coupled with the crunch of bonito flakes was a huge hit and offered diners in Delhi a prelude of things to come: the launch of Zorawar Kalra’s modern Asian bistro in Select Citywalk Mall in mid-December. 

The first thing that you notice as soon as you enter Pa Pa Ya is the 70-feet-high domed ceiling, making it one of the tallest restaurants in the country. The skylights transform the place in the day, with bright sunshine flooding in, allowing you to take in the nuanced interiors crafted in wood, metal and rough stone. In the evening, the same materials shimmer and shine in the soft lights, lending a high energy vibe to the place. The interior design has been done by Masafumi Sanada from Mstyle Japan, who is also responsible for the look of JW Marriott, Pune and District 6 brewery in Bengaluru. A raised circular bar is placed under the dome, breaking the monotony of design. 

“The idea has been to create a very modern, non-thematic space, which is very contemporary but has some elements of Asian in it. I think it is an evergreen restaurant. Even after 50 years, it will continue to look modern,” says Kalra. In the evenings, the place resounds with pulsating music, lending a club-like feel to it. Yet, Kalra maintains that this is not a club, but a high energy dining space, where the focus is firmly on avant-garde food. 

With a seating capacity of 160, the eatery features a live kitchen, a sushi counter, a temperature-controlled wine library and a special Sashimi storage system — probably a first in India for a standalone eatery — which stores fish at -80 degrees. Curated by Sahil Singh, executive chef (pan-Asian), Massive Restaurants, the menu has been customised for Delhi, with 30 per cent of it being new. It features influences from Thailand, Myanmar, Vietnam, China, Japan, Malaysia, Korea, Indonesia and Singapore, among others. 

The wine room at Pa Ya Ya

I would recommend avoiding the familiar staples such as Penang Curry, Laksa and Som Tam, and opting for the signature dishes, which combine innovation with a sense of drama. There is never a dull moment during the meal, starting right away with the amuse-bouche of watermelon in lemongrass and chilli foam, which comes to your table in oyster shells, nestled within a stone bowl steaming with liquid nitrogen fumes. If you haven’t had the Chilli Hoisin Duck Dog, now might be a good chance to savour its big bold flavours. Or opt for the salmon uzukuri with burnt garlic and jalapeno that has a lovely soft, silken feel to it. A sharp contrast to it is the Tuna Tataki Pizza, which is tuna mince with unagi tare served on crisp tortilla base. 

The Hauled Chikin Gogigui Paozu stands out with its tender pulled chicken steamed in a wrapping of fermented rice flour, which is then pan seared. Another must-try is the perfectly-glazed pork in the Butayakitori, which is chargrilled with mirin and served with an interesting combination of apple and betel leaf tartare. I ask Kalra if he plans to take Pa Pa Ya international, just like his other restaurant, Farzi Cafe. “We will go international within six months. I don’t where yet, we are looking at two to three locations. But we will be opening two more Pa Pa Yas in Mumbai and one in Bengaluru,” he says.

A meal for two would cost Rs 3,000 and above