 "Ruling the power kitchens")
What’s it like to cook a state dinner for 1,000 people? Which comfort food does the queen of England turn to after a long day? The answers to these questions lie with members of Le Club des Chefs des Chefs, or CCC, an elite gastronomic society of chefs who whip up banquets for heads of states. Avantika Bhuyan catches up with them on their visit to India
Chef to Prince Albert II of Monaco and CCC president
It has been 30 years since Garcia started cooking in the royal kitchens of the Genoese Palace and he still remembers the awe he felt on meeting Prince Rainier (1923-2005) on the first day of the job. "I joined at the age of 23. I thought, 'Let me see how it goes, it could be a nice experience.' And then, I just never left the palace," he laughs. His stint as the royal chef has been marked by several milestones, but the one he cherishes the most is the state banquet he planned for Nelson Mandela. "I decided to create a special dish, inspired by the 'Star of Africa', the biggest diamond found in South Africa in the 1800s," he says. The intricate dessert featured vanilla-raspberry mousse in a diamond-shaped white chocolate shell. "I was so pleased to receive a compliment from him [Mandela] at the end of the dinner," he says. Garcia is thankful that his food philosophy matches that of the royal family's. "Prince Albert has an organic vegetable garden in his summer residence. And he feels very proud when we use produce from that," says Garcia, who uses a lot of Monegasque ingredients such as zucchini, olive oil and tomatoes. "One of the royal favourites is a dish called barbajuan - fried ravioli stuffed with zucchini, onions and Swiss chards."
Of this confluence of some of the world's finest chefs, Manjit Gill, corporate chef, ITC Hotels, says, "We are certain that the next time our national leaders visit the home countries of the members of CCC, the chefs will be able to offer a glimpse of their learnings from India."
CHEF'S RECIPE
Fresh sole roulade with vegetable confit and black olives (6 portions)
Ingredients
For the rose-shaped pattern: carrots 4; long turnips 2; artichokes violet 3; zucchini trumpet 4; eggplants 2; slices of marrow 6; chard 500 gm; poultry/chicken stock 1 litre; roasted pine nuts 50 gm; pitted black olives with basil and garlic 50 gm
For the turban of sole: Soles 2; fish mousse or paste (scallops or lobster or sole) 500 gm; spinach 500 gm; red, yellow and green tomatoes; olive oil
Method
For the rose-shaped pattern: peel the carrots, zucchinis and cut them into wedges, cook them with butter, chopped shallots and poultry stock. Cut the artichokes into two and cook them in butter along with shallots, a clove of crushed garlic and chicken stock. Slice the eggplants and fry them in olive oil. Cut the marrow precisely and cook in butter and stock. Wash the chard, chop and saute in olive oil.
Put in concentric circles, like a rose, and put in the cooked vegetables.
For the sole: cook the spinach and add the fish mousse to it. Flatten the fillets of sole, put in the spinach and the mousse and roll. Put these on a wooden skewer and steam. For the dressing, mix the cooked artichokes and vegetables in olive oil. Add black olives to this.
Chef to the president of Iceland
As we walk through the narrow bylanes of Khari Baoli, Ingimarsson makes it a point to stop at all the shops that stock fiery red chillies and peppercorn. Though he buys several packets, he is disappointed that this jaunt hasn't revealed any bhut jolokia or the ghost chilli. "Back home, when I cook for myself, I use a lot of spices. I like chilli very much," says Ingimarsson, who is on his second trip to India. Chosen from among 150 candidates after a rigorous selection process, Ingimarsson is embarking on his sixth year of cooking for the president of Iceland. "My first priority is to keep the president healthy. I try to make meals as light as possible," he says. His routine involves choosing seasonal and organic ingredients. Located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean, the cuisine of this Nordic country relies heavily on fish. "We have a lot of lakes teeming with salmon and trout. Iceland is also famous for its lamb, which has a very game-like quality," he says.
CHEF'S RECOMMENDATION
Salmon pan-fried/grilled
All you need for this simple recipe is salmon, butter, sliced onions, salt and pepper. Place onions on a foil, put the salmon on top, add salt, pepper and butter. Cover the salmon with foil, place it on a pan or a grill till cooked.
Magnus Ake Rehback
Chef to the king of Sweden
Not many know that Rehback isn't a formally trained chef. Instead, he studied economics and computer science but gravitated towards the culinary arts during his military service. "I was a cook in the navy, and I loved it." He also got some work experience in restaurants while studying. Rehback has been part of the royal household for the past decade. The royal household is small, "so we have a team of two chefs and a cook. We bring in extra people for bigger events," says Rehback, who strives to find a balance between his likes and the tastes of the royal family. "While deciding the menu, I not only keep in mind their tastes but also their routine." For instance, if the royals have been travelling and eating out, he creates healthy, light, vegetarian dishes when they come back. "During state dinners, my intention is to get the guests talking. That's how I design the menu," he says.
CHEF'S RECOMMENDATION
Cured salmon
This is a Swedish specialty as salmon is one of the most popular core ingredients used across the country. Take a piece of salmon and rub it with a mixture of one part salt, two parts sugar and crushed white pepper. Leave it covered in the fridge for 24 hours. Slice it up and serve this sweet and salty salmon with mustard sauce. You could also add chillies to up the spice quotient.
Mark Flanagan
Chef to the queen of England
I never ever imagined that I would be cooking for the queen,” says Flanagan, who took over as the royal chef from Lionel Mann in 2002. Having worked with some of the best chefs in the UK, Australia and Singapore, Flanagan is responsible for preparing the meals of not just the royal family but also the staff that works in the palaces of Windsor, Sandringham and Balmoral and the Buckingham Palace. “Our team starts work early in the morning and whips up 600 to 700 meals a day,” he says. “These include staff meals, charity lunches, dinners and private meals.” It was Flanagan who designed the much-talked about buffet-style wedding breakfast for Prince William and Kate Middleton in 2011, featuring exquisite canapés that were served with flutes of champagne. “We regularly work with local produce, a lot of which comes from the estates that the queen owns. And, we source from producers that hold the Royal Warrant,” says Flanagan. A family favourite at the palace, he says, is the eggs drumkilbo — eggs made with lobster and prawns.
CHEF’S RECIPE
Loin of lamb with basil and a medley of vegetables (10 portions)
Ingredients: Canons of lamb (fully trimmed from the rack) 5; skinless boneless chicken breasts 3; a large bunch of fresh basil (picked and chopped); clove of garlic 1; double cream 750 ml; tarragon vinegar (reduce to a glaze for gastric) 75 ml; chicken stock (reduce to a glaze for gastric) 250 ml; salt and pepper.
For Gâteau Provençal: Aubergine 3; slim courgettes 5; ripe tomatoes 5; cloves of garlic 2; half a bunch of fresh thyme; olive oil for frying; lamb jus
Method
Trim and dice the chicken breasts, chill the meat and puree in a food processor after adding a good pinch of salt. Take care not to get the meat too warm. Add chopped parsley, basil and the gastric. Work in the cream gently to make a light green mousse. Season the lamb loins and rub with garlic. Pipe the chicken mousse on top and leave to set in the fridge for at least 45 minutes. For the Gâteau Provençal, slice the aubergines into 8 mm thick rounds. Season and fry in olive oil. Reserve to one side. Wash the courgettes, slice to 2 mm diametre and fry with garlic and thyme. The courgette should remain green after frying. Blanch, peel and deseed the tomatoes, adjust the seasoning of each of the three components of the gâteau and then arrange in round moulds (45 mm diameter) in layers: aubergine, tomato, courgette and so on. Infuse the lamb jus with basil stalks while heating, along with some tomato trimmings. Adjust seasoning, strain and serve.
Fabrizio Boca
Chef to the president of Italy
If there were a Mister Congeniality award at CCC, it would go to Boca. One of the most effervescent members of the group, he interacted effortlessly with the locals in Chandni Chowk and the staff at Bukhara. “Our job is very different from a chef working in a commercial kitchen,” he says. “We are more like tailors, customising the menu to suit the tastes of the president and the dignitaries.” says Boca, who heads a team of eight people. Though he uses mostly Italian ingredients, he sometimes turns to herbs and condiments from other countries to add an innovative touch. “For instance, I put some curry inside a focaccia,” he says. His menus draw from the major gastronomic regions of Italy such as Milan and Sicily.
CHEF’S RECIPE
Risotto with herbs
Ingredients
Arborio rice, vegetable stock, salt, parmesan, butter
For the herb sauce: basil, parsley, thyme, rosemary.
For the stock: carrots, courgettes, onions, tomatoes
Method
To make the sauce, clean the herbs, blanch and then cool in icy water. Keep the water that the herbs have been cooked in. Chop the thyme and rosemary leaves. Blend basil and parsley with some of the water that herbs have been cooked in till it becomes creamy.
Now, boil the vegetables and add salt when ready. Toast the rice with some butter and oil. Cook the stock and rice, keep adding the stock once the liquid in the pan reduces or evaporates. Let the rice cook. Now put the sauce with herbs. At the end, stir in some butter and parmesan.
Cristeta Comerford
Chef to the US president
The best moment as a chef is to be able to see happy faces after you have served a meal. I make it a point to take a little peek into the dining area. If the food has been polished off, I am satisfied,” smiles Chef Comerford as she sits down to a meal of kebabs, dal bukhara, ajwaini prawns and naan at Bukhara, ITC Maurya’s iconic restaurant. Comerford created history in 2005 when she became the first woman and a member of an ethnic minority to serve as the White House executive chef. She has since worked under three presidents — Bill Clinton, George W Bush and Barack Obama.
Her culinary philosophy, which lays emphasis on seasonal, healthy cooking, matches closely with Michelle Obama’s. “She is also the mom of a young daughter, and I appreciate our shared perspective on the importance of healthy eating and healthy families,” Obama had said on retaining Comerford as the executive chef in 2009. The large organic garden in the south lawns of the White House, also known as “Michelle’s Garden”, serves as an inspiration for Comerford. “Having such seasonal produce makes you think and rethink menu writing,” she says. “If it’s the season for squash, you wouldn’t wait to use it two months later. You’d serve whatever is plentiful.”
CHEF’S RECIPE
Roasted kuri squash soup (12 to 16 portions)
Ingredients: For the soup: extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp; diced onions 2 cups; sliced garlic ½ cup; sliced leeks 1 cup; sliced celery ½ cup; few sprigs of thyme; cinnamon sticks 4; star anise 4; coriander seeds ½ tbsp.; salt and pepper to taste; vegetable stock 16 cups; roasted kuri squash 6 cups
For the garnish (per plate): kuri squash puree 1 tbsp; ¼ inch Parisienne balls of assorted coloured squash ¼ cup (sweated in olive oil and seasoned); squash blossom tempura ¼, leaf celery tempura 1; sprigs of chervil and micro cilantro; candied pumpkin seed 1 tsp; a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil 1 tsp
Method
Sweat all the aromatics in olive oil. Add thyme, cinnamon sticks, star anise and coriander seeds, until fragrant. Add the stock and the squash. Simmer for 10 minutes. Blend and pass through a fine chinois. Season and keep warm. Garnish.
The chef’s recipes are from the charity dinner held at The Imperial in New Delhi
Chef to Prince Albert II of Monaco and CCC president
It has been 30 years since Garcia started cooking in the royal kitchens of the Genoese Palace and he still remembers the awe he felt on meeting Prince Rainier (1923-2005) on the first day of the job. "I joined at the age of 23. I thought, 'Let me see how it goes, it could be a nice experience.' And then, I just never left the palace," he laughs. His stint as the royal chef has been marked by several milestones, but the one he cherishes the most is the state banquet he planned for Nelson Mandela. "I decided to create a special dish, inspired by the 'Star of Africa', the biggest diamond found in South Africa in the 1800s," he says. The intricate dessert featured vanilla-raspberry mousse in a diamond-shaped white chocolate shell. "I was so pleased to receive a compliment from him [Mandela] at the end of the dinner," he says. Garcia is thankful that his food philosophy matches that of the royal family's. "Prince Albert has an organic vegetable garden in his summer residence. And he feels very proud when we use produce from that," says Garcia, who uses a lot of Monegasque ingredients such as zucchini, olive oil and tomatoes. "One of the royal favourites is a dish called barbajuan - fried ravioli stuffed with zucchini, onions and Swiss chards."
Of this confluence of some of the world's finest chefs, Manjit Gill, corporate chef, ITC Hotels, says, "We are certain that the next time our national leaders visit the home countries of the members of CCC, the chefs will be able to offer a glimpse of their learnings from India."
CHEF'S RECIPE
Fresh sole roulade with vegetable confit and black olives (6 portions)
Ingredients
For the rose-shaped pattern: carrots 4; long turnips 2; artichokes violet 3; zucchini trumpet 4; eggplants 2; slices of marrow 6; chard 500 gm; poultry/chicken stock 1 litre; roasted pine nuts 50 gm; pitted black olives with basil and garlic 50 gm
For the turban of sole: Soles 2; fish mousse or paste (scallops or lobster or sole) 500 gm; spinach 500 gm; red, yellow and green tomatoes; olive oil
Method
For the rose-shaped pattern: peel the carrots, zucchinis and cut them into wedges, cook them with butter, chopped shallots and poultry stock. Cut the artichokes into two and cook them in butter along with shallots, a clove of crushed garlic and chicken stock. Slice the eggplants and fry them in olive oil. Cut the marrow precisely and cook in butter and stock. Wash the chard, chop and saute in olive oil.
Put in concentric circles, like a rose, and put in the cooked vegetables.
For the sole: cook the spinach and add the fish mousse to it. Flatten the fillets of sole, put in the spinach and the mousse and roll. Put these on a wooden skewer and steam. For the dressing, mix the cooked artichokes and vegetables in olive oil. Add black olives to this.
Salmon pan-fried/grilled
Chef to the president of Iceland
As we walk through the narrow bylanes of Khari Baoli, Ingimarsson makes it a point to stop at all the shops that stock fiery red chillies and peppercorn. Though he buys several packets, he is disappointed that this jaunt hasn't revealed any bhut jolokia or the ghost chilli. "Back home, when I cook for myself, I use a lot of spices. I like chilli very much," says Ingimarsson, who is on his second trip to India. Chosen from among 150 candidates after a rigorous selection process, Ingimarsson is embarking on his sixth year of cooking for the president of Iceland. "My first priority is to keep the president healthy. I try to make meals as light as possible," he says. His routine involves choosing seasonal and organic ingredients. Located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean, the cuisine of this Nordic country relies heavily on fish. "We have a lot of lakes teeming with salmon and trout. Iceland is also famous for its lamb, which has a very game-like quality," he says.
CHEF'S RECOMMENDATION
Salmon pan-fried/grilled
All you need for this simple recipe is salmon, butter, sliced onions, salt and pepper. Place onions on a foil, put the salmon on top, add salt, pepper and butter. Cover the salmon with foil, place it on a pan or a grill till cooked.
Magnus Ake Rehback
Chef to the king of Sweden
Not many know that Rehback isn't a formally trained chef. Instead, he studied economics and computer science but gravitated towards the culinary arts during his military service. "I was a cook in the navy, and I loved it." He also got some work experience in restaurants while studying. Rehback has been part of the royal household for the past decade. The royal household is small, "so we have a team of two chefs and a cook. We bring in extra people for bigger events," says Rehback, who strives to find a balance between his likes and the tastes of the royal family. "While deciding the menu, I not only keep in mind their tastes but also their routine." For instance, if the royals have been travelling and eating out, he creates healthy, light, vegetarian dishes when they come back. "During state dinners, my intention is to get the guests talking. That's how I design the menu," he says.
CHEF'S RECOMMENDATION
Cured salmon
This is a Swedish specialty as salmon is one of the most popular core ingredients used across the country. Take a piece of salmon and rub it with a mixture of one part salt, two parts sugar and crushed white pepper. Leave it covered in the fridge for 24 hours. Slice it up and serve this sweet and salty salmon with mustard sauce. You could also add chillies to up the spice quotient.
Mark Flanagan
Chef to the queen of England
I never ever imagined that I would be cooking for the queen,” says Flanagan, who took over as the royal chef from Lionel Mann in 2002. Having worked with some of the best chefs in the UK, Australia and Singapore, Flanagan is responsible for preparing the meals of not just the royal family but also the staff that works in the palaces of Windsor, Sandringham and Balmoral and the Buckingham Palace. “Our team starts work early in the morning and whips up 600 to 700 meals a day,” he says. “These include staff meals, charity lunches, dinners and private meals.” It was Flanagan who designed the much-talked about buffet-style wedding breakfast for Prince William and Kate Middleton in 2011, featuring exquisite canapés that were served with flutes of champagne. “We regularly work with local produce, a lot of which comes from the estates that the queen owns. And, we source from producers that hold the Royal Warrant,” says Flanagan. A family favourite at the palace, he says, is the eggs drumkilbo — eggs made with lobster and prawns.
CHEF’S RECIPE
Loin of lamb with basil and a medley of vegetables (10 portions)
Ingredients: Canons of lamb (fully trimmed from the rack) 5; skinless boneless chicken breasts 3; a large bunch of fresh basil (picked and chopped); clove of garlic 1; double cream 750 ml; tarragon vinegar (reduce to a glaze for gastric) 75 ml; chicken stock (reduce to a glaze for gastric) 250 ml; salt and pepper.
For Gâteau Provençal: Aubergine 3; slim courgettes 5; ripe tomatoes 5; cloves of garlic 2; half a bunch of fresh thyme; olive oil for frying; lamb jus
Method
Trim and dice the chicken breasts, chill the meat and puree in a food processor after adding a good pinch of salt. Take care not to get the meat too warm. Add chopped parsley, basil and the gastric. Work in the cream gently to make a light green mousse. Season the lamb loins and rub with garlic. Pipe the chicken mousse on top and leave to set in the fridge for at least 45 minutes. For the Gâteau Provençal, slice the aubergines into 8 mm thick rounds. Season and fry in olive oil. Reserve to one side. Wash the courgettes, slice to 2 mm diametre and fry with garlic and thyme. The courgette should remain green after frying. Blanch, peel and deseed the tomatoes, adjust the seasoning of each of the three components of the gâteau and then arrange in round moulds (45 mm diameter) in layers: aubergine, tomato, courgette and so on. Infuse the lamb jus with basil stalks while heating, along with some tomato trimmings. Adjust seasoning, strain and serve.
Fabrizio Boca
Chef to the president of Italy
If there were a Mister Congeniality award at CCC, it would go to Boca. One of the most effervescent members of the group, he interacted effortlessly with the locals in Chandni Chowk and the staff at Bukhara. “Our job is very different from a chef working in a commercial kitchen,” he says. “We are more like tailors, customising the menu to suit the tastes of the president and the dignitaries.” says Boca, who heads a team of eight people. Though he uses mostly Italian ingredients, he sometimes turns to herbs and condiments from other countries to add an innovative touch. “For instance, I put some curry inside a focaccia,” he says. His menus draw from the major gastronomic regions of Italy such as Milan and Sicily.
CHEF’S RECIPE
Risotto with herbs
Ingredients
Arborio rice, vegetable stock, salt, parmesan, butter
For the herb sauce: basil, parsley, thyme, rosemary.
For the stock: carrots, courgettes, onions, tomatoes
Method
To make the sauce, clean the herbs, blanch and then cool in icy water. Keep the water that the herbs have been cooked in. Chop the thyme and rosemary leaves. Blend basil and parsley with some of the water that herbs have been cooked in till it becomes creamy.
Now, boil the vegetables and add salt when ready. Toast the rice with some butter and oil. Cook the stock and rice, keep adding the stock once the liquid in the pan reduces or evaporates. Let the rice cook. Now put the sauce with herbs. At the end, stir in some butter and parmesan.
Cristeta Comerford
Chef to the US president
The best moment as a chef is to be able to see happy faces after you have served a meal. I make it a point to take a little peek into the dining area. If the food has been polished off, I am satisfied,” smiles Chef Comerford as she sits down to a meal of kebabs, dal bukhara, ajwaini prawns and naan at Bukhara, ITC Maurya’s iconic restaurant. Comerford created history in 2005 when she became the first woman and a member of an ethnic minority to serve as the White House executive chef. She has since worked under three presidents — Bill Clinton, George W Bush and Barack Obama.
Her culinary philosophy, which lays emphasis on seasonal, healthy cooking, matches closely with Michelle Obama’s. “She is also the mom of a young daughter, and I appreciate our shared perspective on the importance of healthy eating and healthy families,” Obama had said on retaining Comerford as the executive chef in 2009. The large organic garden in the south lawns of the White House, also known as “Michelle’s Garden”, serves as an inspiration for Comerford. “Having such seasonal produce makes you think and rethink menu writing,” she says. “If it’s the season for squash, you wouldn’t wait to use it two months later. You’d serve whatever is plentiful.”
CHEF’S RECIPE
Roasted kuri squash soup (12 to 16 portions)
Ingredients: For the soup: extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp; diced onions 2 cups; sliced garlic ½ cup; sliced leeks 1 cup; sliced celery ½ cup; few sprigs of thyme; cinnamon sticks 4; star anise 4; coriander seeds ½ tbsp.; salt and pepper to taste; vegetable stock 16 cups; roasted kuri squash 6 cups
For the garnish (per plate): kuri squash puree 1 tbsp; ¼ inch Parisienne balls of assorted coloured squash ¼ cup (sweated in olive oil and seasoned); squash blossom tempura ¼, leaf celery tempura 1; sprigs of chervil and micro cilantro; candied pumpkin seed 1 tsp; a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil 1 tsp
Method
Sweat all the aromatics in olive oil. Add thyme, cinnamon sticks, star anise and coriander seeds, until fragrant. Add the stock and the squash. Simmer for 10 minutes. Blend and pass through a fine chinois. Season and keep warm. Garnish.
The chef’s recipes are from the charity dinner held at The Imperial in New Delhi