Nanotechnology breathes life into cosmeceuticals

Nanotechnology refers to any material or engineering occurring at the nanoscale. Whatever the material, what makes the nanoscale world so exciting is that materials in that size regime often acquire new and unexpected physical properties. In the area of cosmetics and anti-ageing, nanotechnology has played an important role in delivery active ingredients to the skin, in both patch delivery and timed release applications. Nanoparticles are transforming the cosmetics industry. Cosmetics are no longer seen as products that cover imperfections, but instead combine clinically proven ingredients with the aesthetics of fine cosmetics. Cosmeceutical products are those poised on the gap between cosmetic products that simply cleanse and beautify and pharmaceuticals that cure and heal. Because there are no medications involved, they are not regulated by the FDA.

Dr Kligman, a dermatologist who discovered that topical retinoic acid (or tretinoin) could be used as both an acne and wrinkle treatment, coined the term ‘cosmeceutical’ in 1980. Today, cosmeceuticals represent one of the fastest growing segments of the personal care industry, expanding at a rapid compound annual growth rate of 7.7 percent. According to Market Research Report, the global cosmeceuticals market will reach $ 61 billion by 2020. The growth of the market is mostly driven by the rising desire of people to maintain healthy skin without using chemicals. The global cosmeceuticals market offers huge potential among the Asian countries, such as Japan, China, and India. 

Critical mass for nanoparticles has been building over the past decade. Several companies devoted to developing nanoparticles for cosmeceuticals have sprung up. The cosmetic industry ranks high among the nanotechnology patent holders in US L’Oreal which devotes about $ 794 million of its annual $ 25 billion revenues to research is the industry leader on nano patents.

Nanoparticles are used in a number of cosmeceuticals, enhancing their properties. Take zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2), for example. Sunscreen products using ZnO and TiO2 are the most effective approved mineral-based ingredients that protect the skin from sun damage. They form a materialistic barrier on the skin, reflecting UVA and UVB rays from penetrating down to the deeper layers of skin, and are less irritating. The main drawback of conventional sunscreen is that, when applied, it leaves a white chalky layer on the skin. Sunscreen products using nanoparticles of ZnO or TiO2 are transparent, less greasy, and less smelly and have increased aesthetic appeal. 

Perhaps most exciting, is that nanoparticles can be incorporated into lipstick and lip-gloss, which will soften or soothe lips by preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology holds a patent that describes that it is possible to prepare pigments exhibiting a wide range of colors using gold or silver nanoparticles by mixing in various compositional ratios. Colours from such compositions can be maintained for a long period of time. Silica nanoparticles used in lipsticks improve the homogenous distribution of pigments. Once applied, they prevent pigments from migrating or bleeding into the fine line of lips.

The use of nanomaterials has also given rise to controversy. The safety of nanoparticles in cosmetic products needs to be addressed.  While cosmetologists claim that nanoparticles are able to penetrate the skin, which is attributed to their size, some academics question the potential dangers of the contact of nanoparticles with human skin. Nanoparticles can be divided into two groups. One group includes soluble and-or biodegradable nanoparticles (for example, liposomes and nanoemulsion). Another group includes insoluble and-or non-biodegradable nanoparticles (for example, TiO2, fullerenes, and quantum dots). Dermal absorption of nanoparticles does not occur readily, but can take place under certain conditions. Although cosmetic products are meant to be used on normal skin, it is known that they are also applied on non healthy skin. In such conditions, the skin barrier properties may be impaired.
________________________________________________________________________________________________

Email: mosongo@mosongomoukwa.com