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From the humble chai to boutique teas, a beverage for all seasons

India is home to some of the most exquisite and premium teas, cherished for their unique flavors, but the humble chai holds its own special place even among aficionados

Tea, tea culture
Photo: AdobeStock
Namrata Kohli New Delhi
9 min read Last Updated : Dec 26 2024 | 3:28 PM IST
In the chaos that is India the two things that possibly unites the entire country, irrespective of language, religion, class, or culture, are cricket and a friendly cup of chai. Indeed, tea can easily be classified as the great equaliser across classes. From a dhaba to a hotel, the most ubiquitous serving is that of a nice, hot cuppa, preferably brewed with milk and some Indian spices, giving it the popular moniker of masala chai.  
 
Not surprisingly, even Indian hospitality majors are flooded with requests for masala chai. “At The Leela, our Indian Masala Tea with ginger and cardamom remains a beloved choice, especially during breakfast and evening hours," reveals Simran Singh Thapar, executive chef at The Leela Palace Bengaluru, His secret to the perfect masala tea? "Ensure you’re using high-quality tea leaves, not tea dust, and avoid over-brewing. The key is simmering the water, adding crushed ginger and cardamom, then gently boiling the milk.”  
Photo: AdobeStock
 
But despite its humble beginnings from a single plant ‘Camellia Sinensis’, certain types of tea now occupy the rarefied echelons of being classified as boutique, with prices to match. Tea can be classified as white, oolong, green, and black, each with its own characteristics. The way it is processed, fermented and oxidised is what contributes to the differences between them. A key component, of course, is origin, such as the region the tea is plucked from, the harvest (first flush, second flush, autumn flush), the quality of the leaves plucked, altitude of the tea garden, growing conditions, and geography. 
 
Some of the bestselling brands include Tata, Goodricke, Red Label, and Lipton, while boutique brands that sell premium teas include Teabox, Vahdam, Teacupsfull, Tea Culture of the world, Tea Trunk, Tea Monk Global. 
 
The luxury brands include all single-estate teas such as Castleton Muscatel, Margret’s Hope Single Estate; Amgoorie, Borbam, Harmutty and Dejoo. “These teas are made from special leaves from the same tea estate without being blended with any other teas,” says tea connoisseur Atul Asthana, former managing director of Goodricke Group. “That’s why these teas are premium. Amongst the single estate teas, Darjeelings are in the range of Rs 6,000 to 7,000 per kg while the Assams at Rs 5,000 per kg. These teas which are special and premium should be brewed (not boiled) for 4/5 mins and should be had without milk and sugar. Maybe a dash of lime is allowed as it enhances the taste.”  
 
According to him, the typically Indian way of boiling water, tea, milk and sugar all together is anathema. “Milk and sugar are known as white poison and not at all advocated for adding to tea,” he says. “Black tea (without milk & sugar) has a lot of medicinal properties as it contains polyphenols, antioxidants, amino acids, and flavonoids. The traditional method of boiling water with tea leaf, milk and sugar is unhealthy and should be avoided.” 
 
Like all good things, tea comes with its own set of fandom and myths that have grown up around it, from being dehydrating to having high caffeine levels to even curing cancer.  
 
“The first myth about tea is that it is dehydrating. The water content that is used in your tea contributes to hydrating your entire body and helping you get through your day,” says Vikas Purohit, promoter, Aacharan Enterprise, Miraj group, which processes and exports premium quality tea. “You might hear people say that they need a cup of tea before starting their day. It’s because of the hydrating factor of the water content in your tea. Another popular myth about tea is that it is high in caffeine. However, ... tea has less caffeine in it compared to coffee. This can also vary according to your brewing method, as different households prefer different methods.”  
 
Indeed, there is no one way to have tea. “To each their own way,” says tea scientist Gurmeet Singh, who has 25 inventions of the brew to his name. He personally has different teas at different points of day. “I start my day with our good old boiled chai with milk, ginger, elaichi in morning and evening. I take it without sugar. Green tea is mid-morning, and herb and orthodox blends are hot brewed and chilled with meals. (There are) so many ways – with milk, without milk, with lemon, with herbs, spices, botanicals etc. All good ways. Boiling, hot brew, cold brew, there are many ways to make tea.” But he does recommend reducing the sugar content in tea, not necessarily from a flavour perspective but from a general health perspective.  
 
Chef Ashish Singh, COO and culinary director, Ikigai by Cafe Delhi Heights, says all teas should be served decanted and hot, with a specific process and decanting time for different types of tea. 
 
Purohit also cautions against believing that drinking tea can kill cancer cells. Green tea has been studied by scientists and has been suggested to provide the body with a perfect space to improve cellular function. One of the studies hosted on PubMed Central at National Center for Biotechnology Information, a US government initiative, even suggests that tea could play a role in delaying cancer onset and reducing cancer incidence. However, medical science doesn’t support any claim of tea curing cancer. 
 
It's also a myth that tea can cure all ailments. Tea can help you and improve your immune system, which would enhance your chances of coping with illness, but it won’t keep the doctor away. 
 
Nonetheless, organic teas like Ashwagandha, Tulsi, and Saffron have seen a significant surge in demand, driven by the growing preference for wellness-focused choices. These teas not only offer unique flavors but also come with a host of health benefits, making them a popular pick among tea enthusiasts. 
 
As Chinese tea connoisseur Lu Yu says in 'The Classic Art of Tea’: “Tea tempers the spirit, harmonises the mind, dispels lassitude and relieves fatigue, awakens the thought and prevents drowsiness.” It is indeed a potent combo of wellness, delight and convenience.  
Photo: AdobeStock
 
And in today’s stressful work environment, it can often make or break a conversation. Moutushi Mukherjee, commissioning editor at Penguin Random House India, says an editor’s day is incomplete without tea. “It’s the universal choice of beverage for conversations with authors. Equally, it’s the choice of beverage for sticky discussions with sales and other editors. Nothing quite gets the conversation going as a strong cuppa and, more often than not, it’s the glue that sticks together many such uncomfortable conversations,” she says.  
 
Finally, as the saying goes, life is like a cup of tea – it's all in how you make it. But it’s also about how you present it. Tea presentation in itself is a major art and science. Today, offering someone tea is not just about taste but also about the visual and aromatic appeal. What is the best way to present and serve tea? Tea presentation has evolved from simple servings to a more mindful and sensory experience. Ask the Chinese or Japanese, where the ritual of serving tea has been raised to the level of high art.  

A sip of luxury

Makaibari Silver Tips Imperial (Darjeeling) 
 
Region: Makaibari Tea Estate, Darjeeling 
 
Description: Harvested during full moon nights, this is one of the rarest and most luxurious teas in the world. 
 
Price: Up to Rs 1.12 lakh per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Delicate floral and muscatel notes with a smooth finish. 
 
Badamtam Moonlight White Tea (Darjeeling) 
 
Region: Badamtam Tea Estate, Darjeeling 
 
Description: Known for its limited harvest and delicate processing, this tea is an epitome of luxury. 
 
Price: Rs 2 lakh per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Sweet, mellow, and fragrant with hints of stone fruits. 
 
Assam Silver Needle White Tea 
 
Description: A rare and exquisite white tea made from young, unopened tea buds. 
 
Price: Rs 15,000 to Rs 1.5 lakh per kilogram (depending on the batch and quality) 
 
Flavor Profile: Light, delicate, with floral and fruity undertones. 
 
Specialty: Rich in antioxidants, minimally processed for a fresh taste. 
  Manohari Gold Tea 
 
Description: Known for fetching record-breaking prices at auctions, this tea is a luxury offering from the Manohari Tea Estate. 
 
Price: Rs 1 lakh to Rs 2 lakh per kilogram (auction price) 
 
Flavor Profile: Smooth, malty, and aromatic with a golden liquor. 
 
Specialty: Limited production makes it highly sought after. 
  Golden Tips Tea (Darjeeling) 
 
Region: Darjeeling 
 
Description: Handcrafted and sun-dried, these teas are produced in small 
 
quantities for a refined experience. 
 
Price: Rs 20,000 to Rs 40,000 per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Aromatic with complex muscatel flavors. 
  Assam Golden Tips 
 
Description: A luxurious tea made from the finest golden tips (unopened leaf buds) of the tea plant. 
 
Price: Rs 5,000 to Rs 10,000 per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Rich, malty, and smooth with a hint of sweetness. 
 
Specialty: Handpicked and processed delicately for a superior flavor. 
 
Halmari Gold Tea 
 
Description: One of the most celebrated teas from Assam, known for its consistently high quality and rich flavor. 
 
Price: Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,000 per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Bold and brisk with malty undertones and a hint of honey. 
 
Specialty: Premium CTC and orthodox variants available. 
 
Assam Orthodox Tea 
 
Description: High-grade orthodox teas from Assam are known for their refined flavor and exquisite aroma. 
 
Price: Rs 2,000 to Rs 5,000 per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Rich, malty, with notes of spices and dried fruits. 
 
Specialty: Made using traditional methods for a premium taste. 
 
Dinjoye Premium Gold Tea 
 
Description: A high-quality Assam tea known for its bold flavor and golden tips. 
 
Price: Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,000 per kilogram 
 
Flavor Profile: Strong and robust with a malty finish. 
 
Specialty: Favored by tea connoisseurs for its full-bodied character.

Topics :Personal Finance Tea producersTea industryIndian tea industry

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