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'The pop should be discreet'

Q&A/ Daniel Lorson, Director, CIVC

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Arati Menon Carroll Mumbai
The Comite Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne is the representative body for champagne. But neither the long French name nor the bubbly itself should intimidate you.
 
How much champagne is India consuming?
 
Unconfirmed figures put it at 20,000-30,000 cases in 2006-07.
 
Why do people enjoy "popping" open champagne?
 
Champagne has always been reserved for celebrations and the ceremony is considered officially open once the cork goes "pop". Although the pop should ideally be a more discreet sigh.
 
Will champagne makers ever replace natural cork?
 
Synthetic cork is an option. A screw cap is not. A crown cap certainly is not. It needs to breathe; only cork allows it to.
 
Do champagnes taste different from each other?
 
Of course they do. Champagne is usually a blend of three varieties of grape "" two red and one white but the proportions vary. Also, some champagnes are Blanc de blances or Blanc de noirs, made from either a single variety of white (Chardonnay) or red grape (Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier).
 
Then, there are vintage champagnes (clearly dated) that are aged for a minimum of three years and non-vintage champagnes that are aged for 15 months. Ageing introduces different notes of evolution.
 
What tasting protocol does one need to follow with champagne?
 
With champagne, you try and engage all your five senses. First, identify the shade. Then take the first nose, inhaling slowly and at length.
 
Some snobbish tasters put the flute to their ear to listen for the bubbles, and if you're drinking from really fine crystal, let your hand cup the flute and "feel" the champagne. Lastly, you taste it, rolling the champagne around your mouth. At a party, start with the youngest/ driest, end with oldest/ sweetest.
 
What's the fuss about rose champagne?
 
For one, its colour is so magical ranging from onion pink to a deep salmon. It was considered less complex than regular champagne but its popularity is growing; manufacturers are now unable to keep up with demand.
 
It is a little more expensive because it requires an extra step in production. Some winemakers simply add a little red still wine to the blend before refermentation (to give the fizz). Others allow the juice to macerate briefly with the pigment of grape skins.
 
So, we're a little confused, do you want the world to consume more champagne or is demand outstripping supply?
 
We definitely want the demand for champagne to continue but we want it to be consumed on the appropriate occasions and drunk in the right fashion.
 
Champagne makes up for only 1 per cent of total wine production and because the production of champagne is restricted to only the Champagne region in France, we cannot have unlimited supply. We also want the French to consume less; 87 per cent of champagne is consumed in a radius of 1,500 kilometres.
 
What are the ideal drinking conditions for champagne?
 
The ideal drinking temperature should be 8-10 degrees centigrade. Choose a glass that is spotlessly clean, tall enough and large enough to allow the bubbles to rise to the surface. Finally, fill the glass no more than two-thirds full.

 

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First Published: Dec 22 2007 | 12:00 AM IST

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