If you get off the Delhi Gate metro station on the Violet Line and walk down Dariyaganj towards Jama Masjid and Red Fort, it is unlikely that you will be able to spot the Sunheri Masjid or imagine a time when one could have caught a glimpse of the Yamuna from this busy, congested thoroughfare. At Chandni Chowk, you will encounter the chaotic beautification of the busy street and if you visit the Red Fort, many of the area will be inaccessible as they are being refurbished. The chaos of this living, contemporary city conceals centuries of history, and few