Arab, Argentinian? Or the new Sahyadri?

Indian and other Asian cuisines have new suitors this season. Anoothi Vishal suggests some interesting wines that you can pair with these.

The sophisticated Bordeaux you may have ordered unwittingly at the Indian-Chinese restaurant may not have lived up to its price tag. And you may even have regretted the otherwise impeccable La Reserve, on occasion, say with curry gone too hot.

On the other hand, and contrary to "rules", there are quite a few wines that do go well with Indian and spicy Asian cuisines. Because, after all, it is chilli "" not spices "" that overpowers any wine.

So, if you manage to avoid too much of the former, even the likes of Chateau Petrus (the most expensive wine we have, at around Rs 1 lakh a bottle) has the potential to pair with, say, a lamb biryani. That's what Thomas Sauzet, of Brindco, one of the country's largest spirits importers, tells me as he suggests more reasonable pairings. But this season also sees some other new and interesting options.

"Twilight" from Lebanon
At the recently-concluded International Food Exhibition in New Delhi, importer Sanjeev Arora of Goldstar Impex displayed the Massaya. Meaning "twilight" in Arabic, it is the only Lebanese wine available in the country.

Of course, you may not associate Lebanon with wine at all (Arak, a sweet, aniseed liqueur, is the usual accompaniment to Lebanese food as we know it) given both its war-ravaged status and the fact that it is part of the Arab world. But the region has been, in fact, engaged in wine-making from pre-Biblical times.

The Phoenicians, forefathers of the modern-day Lebanese, would sail around the Mediterranean with their wares and the valley where the Massaya vineyards are located apparently has a temple dedicated to Bacchus even now.

More recently, it has been a little more difficult to produce the wine in the valley and not just for reasons of terroir. Instead, a feature on www.oxfordwine.co.uk talks about how Massaya's winemaker Ramzi Ghosn "spent his time holed up with his vats whilst being peppered with lethal shrapnel as nearby factories and the road in front of the winery were destroyed" in a conflict with Israel some years ago.

The boutique winery was set up in 1998, when Ghosn, an architect in Los Angeles, went back to family-owned land with his brother and brought in French expertise.

There are three reds, two whites and a rose produced from varietals such as Cinsault (Rose), Grenache and Syrah (in the Rs 1,200-1,500 bracket) that are easy-to-drink wines. Also very affable are the organic Alsace wines (with a green label) that Arora is bringing in for those who seek hipness.

The new domestic
Another option could be by way of a company called N D wines from Nashik. Having been one of the biggest exporters of table grapes in the country "" as well as a supplier to both Sula and Chateau Indage so that area manager Ashish Dabbas says "if Sula wines have been considered good, it means our quality has already been appreciated" "" the company has roped in French winemaker Jean Manual Jacqui and is now promoting its brand aggressively.

You can choose from newly-launched Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, wines that have been made "keeping the Indian palate in mind", according to chairman Ashok Gaikwad.

Go Argentina (not Chile) with Indian-Chinese
Then, there is Terrazas from Argentina. Chilean wines are overwhelming favourites when it comes to South American wines but Argentina too has a history.

Until a couple of years ago, its wines were mostly for domestic consumption but now that people there have moved to alternatives ("like healthy water (!)", as Gustavo Sanchez, their visting winemaker, told me) and the economy is recovering, there is a focus on exports.

The winery has a tie-up with Moet and Chandon (though these are mid-market wines, priced at approximately Rs 1,600 a bottle). Four labels are available, including blends from snow-fed vineyards up in the Andes (!); Argentinian-style wines, fruity and easy-to-drink. One of the varietals is Malbec which can pair well with the "thick brown sauces of Indian-Chinese". So, choose your pick.

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OTHER PAIRINGS

Nothing goes with a very hot dish ""stick to beer. Otherwise, depending on regional flavours, your mood and liking, you could opt for:

1. Reislings, Alsace, New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, light reds like Beaujolais or the Italian Bardolino (say, with a light chicken preparation)

2. Merlots and Cabernets from the new world, Shiraz from Australia for a more complex gravy dish since the level of tanins here would not be overpowered by the sauce

3. Light, high acidity whites (including the Chablis) to cut through dishes with thick sauce

4. Grover Vineyard's La Reserve with lamb biryani