Barolo over Bordeaux?

THE WINE CLUB

Name five kinds of French wine "" a cinch, even for the wine rookie. Now name five varieties of Italian wine. Stuck on Chianti, or perhaps Pinot Grigio, another huge commercial success?

Don't drown your embarrassment in a barrel but it may be time to update yourself. Italians are gaining a reputation not only because they're today leading exporters, but also because they are achieving vivid expression in wine making.

Visiting Italian wine makers suggest the renaissance has to do with a Tuscan wine maker called Piero Antinori who broke regional blending laws, adding forbidden Bordeaux varietals to Chianti blends.

Other winemakers started experimenting with blends of their own shortly thereafter. Because these wines did not conform to strict classifications, they were labeled "table wines", a term ordinarily reserved for lower quality wines, but astute tasters called them "Super Tuscans" because as a result some great wines were produced. Today these enjoy a classification of their own (IGT), while also capturing world attention.

"For years, Italian wine was a Chianti in a wicker basket bottle, so acidic it had to be consumed with food," says Richard Goodine of Castello Banfi.

Castello Banfi, originally a Tuscan estate now with sister estates in other regions, has pioneered clonal research of Italy's most historic grape, the Sangiovese, producing the award-winning Brunello di Montalcino (Italy's first wine variety to be accorded the superlative D O C G status).

They were at the vanguard of the resuscitation of the lagging wine variety through the '80s and '90s and today make a fifth of all Brunello. "We wanted people to enjoy what we thought Italian wines could offer "" more finesse, elegance and youth," says Goodine.

Glassfuls of characterful Italian wine courtesy recent trade tastings, and visits from a few flambouyant Italian wine producers later, it's easy to see that Italy is delivering on that.

"For years the French have enjoyed the maximum image benefits of being upper-ended. Today, Italy is a close second," indicates Magandeep Singh, a Delhi-based sommelier. Singh suggests that Indians consume more high-end Italian wine than Bordeaux.

"People speak of Bordeaux so highly, but did you know that the governing laws were created in 1855 and since then incorporated just one change," pooh-poohs Goodine, "Italian vintners, on the other hand, have challenged their laws so many times."

One of those dissenters is Angelo Gaja of Gaja wines whom Thomas Sauzet, marketing manager of Brindco (Indian importers of Gaja and Castello Banfi), calls the "Pop (interchangeable with Prince) of Italian wines".

Gaja is modest about his contribution. A fourth generation wine maker at the Gaja estate in Piedmonte (with additional estates in Tuscany), the northern Italian region known for the classic and powerful Barbaresco (red, also DOCG), Gaja was one of the first in the region to experiment with non-indigenous varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

"I like to call myself an artisan because in fact, I only produce 300,000 bottles a year." Gaja's wines firmly occupy the "premium wine" category, ranging from Rs 3,000 to Rs 14,000.

It's curious that legends like Gaja would want to visit such a young (and value-driven) wine market as India.

"The Italian commercial office has been encouraging their wineries to visit India because they believe the potential here is nothing short of China," says Naresh Uttamchandani of Sovereign Impex. Singh also suggests that Italian wine trade events offer nothing but the top end for tasting.

"The French, on the other hand, seem to use more entry level stuff and that leaves nobody terribly impressed," he says.

But the French are still selling more expensive wine than anyone else. Gaja suggests that although by volume Italian exports are larger, the value per litre of French wine is nearly twice that of Italian wine exports.

"What we have is the greatest number of vine varietals "" 1,500 "" many of which cannot be replicated. Italian wine makers should take advantage of grapes like Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico that are hard to imitate elsewhere," he says, cautioning wine makers against selling their soul to the dictates of modern commerce.

But nothing works better in their favour, says Gaja, than the universality of Italian food. "Italian restaurateurs are the best ambassadors of Italian wine," he says. And that will work in the Indian market too, especially as Italian food gains prominence.

Eateries like Vetro at the Oberoi in Mumbai are incorporating depth to their wine offering with over 1,000 bottles of wine tucked away. Ritu Dalmia of Diva, Delhi, was recently knighted with the Order of the Star of Italian Solidarity for her contribution in promoting Italian food and wine.

So whether your poison is accolade-winning vintages, cult favourites or cheap and cheer-ies, Italy now offers an expansive range. Or there's always that great substitute...a large dollop of Italian charm.