Carry on Cartier

Cartier is looking around for a joint venture partner to enter the Indian jewellery market with.

After a long and profitable association with Indian royalty "" lavish patrons of European luxury goods "" luxury giant Cartier is making an effort to revive its links with modern India. Here to launch Cartier's latest women's scent, Delices de Cartier, Patrick Normand, managing director, Middle East, Cartier, says that his trips to India are turning frequent. "Descendants of the maharajas still show us photographs of their families posing with members of the Cartier family in the early 20th century," he says, "Now it's time to woo the new maharajas: wealthy industrialists."

The launch of the perfume coincides with the global launch of Delices de Goa, a new jewellery line that's meant to inspire imagery of lush Goa, scheduled to be out in stores across Europe this month. This isn't the first time, nor will be the last, that Cartier's fascination for India has provided inspiration for its pursuit of exotic design. The colourful enamel work of Jaipur, Benares and Lucknow was often mirrored in the use of coral, black enamel and coloured stones in Cartier jewels of the Art Deco period. There's also the Tutti Frutti necklace, first made in the 1930s, a multi-coloured confection of Indian-imported precious stones cut into leaves, fruits and flowers, that was later made into a full-fledged collection "" Cartier's most acclaimed, overshadowed only by the ubiquity of the Trinity ring.

Cartier's presence in India is still restricted to its watches, perfume and eyewear; the arrival of its ritzy jewellery boutiques is much anticipated. While the perfumes and eyewear are sold through licensed distributors, and watches directly imported by high-end retailers, Cartier is looking for a joint venture partner for its jewellery business in India. "We want to make the most of the the 51-per cent stake that's newly permitted." Normand indicates that there are several "interested parties", but isn't prepared to hop into a deal in a hurry. "Cartier is a timeless brand, and we're certainly going to take our time on this... we will wait for the perfect opportunity."

Cartier, part of the euro4.3 billion Richemont group, wants to reach out to younger people globally, and Delices de Cartier is designed especially for women in their 30s.

The brand may be in no big hurry, but India's favourable demographics will surely silken its entry.