That and more for the north Indian palate at the new Veda in Mumbai
There’s no neon signage to tell the bustling mall crowds in Mumbai’s Lower Parel that Alok Aggarwal and Rohit Bal’s restaurant Veda is open for business.
It’s only when you peep inside the dimly lit restaurant that you realise that designer Rohit Bal has lent Veda some of his extravagant style. Elaborate hand-cut mirror work, a glittering fish-scaled dome for a ceiling, eccentric sofas and portrait-size mirrors complete the interiors.
Alok Aggarwal, who mingles with patrons every weekend, admits he has a winner in Veda. He expects to break even within two years. “The private dining room here, which can house a private party of about 50-60,” he says, “has seen regular bookings since the launch. We have healthy walk-ins even during lunch hours, probably due to the proximity to South Mumbai’s office areas.”
Veda comes to Mumbai after gathering accolades for its Connaught Place, New Delhi restaurant. The promoters also run a lounge bar called Cibo, in Delhi, and the Michelin-starred Devi in New York. Aggarwal says, “We won’t take Veda beyond, say, one more outlet, possibly a standalone dining place, in Mumbai, as it’s not supposed to be a casual hang-out joint.” He was apprehensive about opening Veda in a mall, but gave in when he saw the space available in the upmarket Palladium.
If you aren’t spellbound by handcrafted mirrored motifs like the peacock, lotus and the tree of life that offer a peek into Rohit Bal’s creativity, then chef K P Singh’s food will do it.
A simple yet authentic north Indian menu is what Singh and his brigade aim to deliver. Singh takes pride in his chutneys, that comprise seasonal fruits and vegetables. He serves them with meats and starters.
For all those who thought Indian food was too heavy and oily, here’s a welcome change. The chef interprets Indian cooking for Gen X, dishing up a batter-fried crispy spinach chaat and crispy potato chips with lotus stem and curry leaf. North Indian meat-lovers will find authentic tastes in chicken starters flavoured with fenugreek, garlic and cheese, or in succulent berrah lamb tandoor chops.
Singh, who has worked at the acclaimed Tamarind in New York, is proud of his Butter Gravy Chicken, Lamb in Kheema Gravy, Kashmiri Lamb in Onion and Tomato and the slow-cooked Lamb Biryani with Yoghurt, Onion and Tomato.
Realising, however, that the restaurant is drawing well-heeled vegetarians, Singh decided to add vegetarian dishes. “It’s a surprise to us that Mumbaikars have been asking for more variety in vegetarian dishes,” Singh says. So Veda will add an entire page to the menu to cater to ingredient-specific vegetarian requests. It will also widen its chaat, vegetarian starters and main courses.
Must-try items on Veda’s vegetarian menu include Daal Veda, Cheesy Spinach Kofta Curry and the Hyderabadi Salan of Peppers and Aubergine.
Veda, Palladium Mall, High Street Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, open 12 noon-1 am. Call 022-43326666
