Consumer types

THE WINE CLUB

It is a fact that with the recent explosion in the number of wine brands on retail shelves in India, most consumers are confused, even intimidated, by the choice now available.

We have over 250 wine brands available (not all in any one shop), and since most retailers have absolutely no idea about wine, many tend to equate price with quality "" and make their buys accordingly.

But hold it "" are people really that simple-minded as not to (by now) know that, with customs duties running at about 250 per cent, imported wines cost a lot more here than "back home"?

Given that sales of imported wines are galloping along at an annual 30-35 per cent growth rate, I suspect that not too many really care "" perhaps they like the variety on offer, or perhaps it's just the done thing to drink the desi stuff but serve something phoren when entertaining.

Why is it that winelists at most deluxe restaurants mostly consist of high-priced French wines (which are never available in retail shops)? What is it that wine drinkers really want?

Current research overseas (Project Genome by Constellation, for example) categorises wine drinkers in the US of A not just by demographics (i.e. sex, age, education, income etc) but by inclination "" an attempt to derive an understanding of consumer preferences and needs based on their drinking and buying habits, as well as psychological and lifestyle factors.

So there are the Enthusiasts: people who are passionate and knowledgeable about wine "" connoisseurs, perhaps, but in a positive sense who like to read and research the subject, and are likely to have a cellar at home.

They are distinct from Traditionalists: older, still knowledgeable, but inclined to stick to known brands or wineries or even regions.

Then there are the Image Seekers: don't know too much about wine but like to feel both sophisticated and adventurous.

Another category is the Savvy Shopper "" this lot looks for value (not necessarily the cheapest drop), and are willing to explore new brands and regions.

They are not to be confused with the Satisfied Sipper, who is not knowledgeable at all, and will buy any basic wine she is comfortable with.

Lastly, there is the Overwhelmed Wine Drinker (the vast majority in India, I suspect) who just picks up whatever wine is pushed or catches his or her eye.

There are some distinct differences in how we Indians drink (and perceive) wine: for one, most parties are buffet affairs where the drinking is done pre-dinner, so easy-drinking wines fare much better than those that are very dry or complex.

Then again, domestic party culture tends to be a "piye-khaye-khiske" thing, with an extended cocktail hour (or two, even three) and people leaving almost immediately after the (always late) dinner.

Moreover, most Indian cuisines have lots of spices and gravies, and so are difficult candidates to match wines with. Lastly, of course, there's this Gandhian legacy that perceives anything alcoholic (even wine or beer) as morally reprehensible.

So far as I know, there's been no systematic effort to research consumer behaviour or habits and attitudes for wines in India.

No doubt this will be rectified when the Big Guys start looking seriously at this market, but till then it would be interesting to see if it's possible to delve into the local psyche and co-relate this with how wine consumers are seen overseas (as above).

We would have the Aspirational Social Climber: those who want to appear sophisticated, know little about wine, but start imbibing just to keep up with the 'smart set' (we all know a few).

What about the Flighty Dahling Birds one finds at cocktail parties air-kissing each other, wine glass in hand (doesn't matter what wine).

The Connoisseur is a rare creature, and is more often found than the Wine Snob: an insufferable know-all who will never drink any wine priced below Rs 2,000/bottle "" and lets everyone know about this.

So where do you fit in, dear reader? Do you have any insights to offer on the Indian wine consumer?

Do write in and let me know "" including which category you think I belong to!

Till then, Eis Igian (that's Greek for "good health").

(al_chandra@vsnl.net)