Guzzlers of Black Label don't really know their aperitifs. Anoothi Vishal suggests some fun - and lighter - spirits to make your evenings livelier and much more stylish.
In India, of course, we are used to drinking much harder stuff pre-dinner, but if you are willing to defer your single malts, a round of aperitifs can be great fun — especially in this weather when the lighter and drier a drink (not to mention colder), the more likely it is to find favour. But the first question you may like to ask is: what really are aperitifs? And how, indeed, do you differentiate the usual glass of Sauvignon Blanc or a vodka - or gin-based cocktail from a classic aperitif?
An aperitif is usually an alcoholic drink served before dinner (in France, before lunch too), sometimes accompanied by a starter, at other times supposed to function like an appetiser itself. It is debatable where the custom originated. Some say it was in Egypt, others ascribe it to Italy, to the invention of vermouth (dry and sweet vermouths are classic aperitifs) in the 19th century. But what you undoubtedly need to keep in mind is the function of this ritual: An aperitif is drunk to “open up” (Latin aperire: “to open”) the palate, preparing guests for treats ahead.
| APERITIFS IN A BOTTLE
Sherries: A range of styles is available in Spain. From $4-50 |
Vermouth, in the West, was thought to be medicinal for a long time. And whether or not it did anything for the constitution, it certainly tasted that! Forget guests, in India, even young bartenders out of their IHMs complain about the “cough syrup”-like taste of bitter spirits. However, if you count yourself as discerning —bring in a bottle of some hand-crafted vermouth from your travels! Pour it over ice, with a wedge of orange squeezed in, or have it just by itself. There is, of course, the Martini (a brand of vermouth as opposed to the cocktail by the same name), easily available in dry and extra dry (Rosso) formats. Then, there is Campari (made from the infusion of bitter herbs, aromatic plants and fruit in alcohol) that can also be served in aperitif glasses by itself.
On the other hand, an aperitif that has become a big trend abroad is absinthe. A long ban on the spirit was only lifted last year. Now, people hold absinthe parties, where they drink the spirit the traditional way — with special spoons and glasses (find them on ebay) and a special “technique” of pouring water over a sugar cube to dilute the (very high proof) spirit.
Absinthe has had a chequered history. A distilled beverage of anise, fennel and other herbs (including a plant known as the grande wormwood), it was a favourite with bohemian artists and writers in Paris. From Baudelaire to Oscar Wilde, all were known to be consumers of this spirit, portrayed as an addictive psychoactive drug. It’s only been since last year that drinking it has become popular again. Pernod Ricard has reintroduced its Pernod Fils, the first distilled absinthe in the world, as Pernod Absinthe.
In the absence of absinthe during the ban, other anise and fennel drinks also became popular in Europe as aperitifs, including pastis (French). Find a bottle. The Greeks, by the way, have ouzo, while the Lebanese have arack.
Or, get hold of a few good bottles of sherry. The tapas culture is now catching on in India and these are ideally paired with sherry. “The biggest misconception is that it is a sweet, grandmother’s drink,” says Kavita Devi Saialla, cellar master at The Aman, New Delhi, that has a big collection of sherries. Saialla is candid that the only time guests ask about the spirit is when they want to know about sherry casks (in which whisky, in Scotland, is aged). The hotel is running an educational programme and, should you attend one of their evenings, you’ll no doubt come back enlightened:
Like wine, sherries have different styles: From the very dry to the sweet (or cream) —the last known to us from our colonial days. Fino is the driest and palest and then there are Amontillados and Oloroso, aged and nuttier, and Pedroximenez, the only sweet style. Manziooa, on the other hand, is Fino that has been aged for eight years; it is special because the wineries which make it are by the sea and open their doors to let in the sea air, letting it infuse with the spirit. It is dry and perfect with Indian starters, including chicken tikkas, says Saialla. Fino, on the other hand, would go well with the likes of olives, calamari, shellfish, while amontillado is suited to almonds, cured meats et al.
Wine-based aperitifs like Dubonnet (Pernod Ricard) are, of course, also popular and it is possible to serve up cocktails like Kir (white wine with crème de cassis) or Kir Royale (with sparkling wine) as aperitifs. But if you are using wine in cocktails, make sure that you are not wasting Veuve Clicquot Grande Dame! A bottle of a decent Californian or Prosecco (Italy’s light, dry sparkling white wine from Veneto) is a good bet.
Finally, which wines are suitable aperitifs? Obviously it should be something dry — a Chardonnay, over a rounded Sauvignon Blanc. The Indian Chenin Blancs may be a good bet, too (Reveilo and Rennaisance ones come recommended).
But if it is champagne you want to serve, Rajeev Singhal, the “Champagne ambassador” in India, suggests a blanc de blanc (“white from white”) made from 100 per cent Chardonnay grapes. Not too many of these, however, are available in retail in India, except perhaps Pommery’s blanc de blanc.
The other option is to settle for a Brut NV by Moet. Sip up!
