Flying full mast

FASHION: Entrepreneurs Laila and Rohit Rajpal look for the full force of volumes to power on ahead.

Time was when fashion designers would storm out of any business discussion involving work that might sell for anything less than a small fortune.

That seems a long time ago, with designers so keen on volumes now: from veterans like Suneet Varma, Ritu Kumar, Rina Dhaka, J J Valaya and Sabyasachi, to newbies like Narendra Kumar and Varun Bahl, designers are surrendering to the arms of prêt "" off-the-rack, ready to wear clothes that sell in a range from Rs 400-4,000.

The latest to join the affordability club, Laila and Rohit Rajpal, along with designer Sanjana Jon, are set to unveil a new fashion label this August aimed at the global Indian and priced in a range starting at just Rs 500 apiece.

"We will begin with a women's and men's line, and look to add children's and an accessories collection later this year," says Rohit Rajpal, who is CEO of this maiden venture.

"Traditionally," adds Jon, the venture's creative director, "designerwear has been looked at as clothes sold in expensive and inaccessible-looking retail outlets that most people would be apprehensive to access." In contrast, this label will be about fashionwear sans any snooty frills.

Setting sail with two stores in south and west Delhi, Rajpal is looking at stores in all metros and tier I and II cities by next year.

"We have earmarked a little over Rs 21 crore for the flagship stores in Delhi, and will also have counters at leading retail stores like Shoppers' Stop," he details.

Mumbai will be the next metro to get a showroom. Talks are on with franchisees and branded retail stores for shop-in-shop counters.

The garments will be designed at design studios in India and New York, and then made at a unit in Delhi. The Rajpals have another reason to trust their judgment of what plays on the global Indian's mind by way of fashion.

"We have been manufacturing clothes for international labels and fashion houses like Diesel, Next and Zara for years now," claims Rajpal, "while exports remain a strong business division for us, it is important for us to be strong in retailing in India."

Pricing is a critical part of the strategy. Both Jon and Rajpal emphasise that the need of the hour is "to focus on prêt and its price points". Demand is strong, and the advantage of volumes must not be ignored.

Yet, Jon's previous stint as designer with fashion label Satya Paul had proved a damp squib, so it remains to be seen whether the creative partnership with Rohit Rajpal will pay better dividends. For both.