Forget booking a hotel. To unwind this summer, try a homestay instead, Anand Sankar suggests.
It is often said that there’s no place better than home, while you’re on vacation. But if you are looking for a slice of exotica without having to contend with the impersonality of a hotel room, take heart: homestays have come of age in India, and interesting options are now available for travellers who want to sample the local culture and lifestyle of a destination in an authentic way.
But first, what is a homestay? It is exactly as the name suggests: lodging in a private home which has one to eight rooms to spare for paying guests. It used to be difficult for individual homeowners to let out rooms, but recent changes in tourism policy mean that in states including Karnataka, Kerala and Rajasthan, people can now obtain licenses to let out their homes, with no hassle. The result is that you get to stay with the family that owns the house, eat your meals with them, and learn, firsthand, about local practices and traditions.
Travel experts point out that homestays are a key part of sustainable tourism. But they also caution that these should not be seen as cheap substitutes for hotel stays. Though homestays are often cheaper, they can sometimes work out to be a more expensive option than staying in a hotel.
An upside is that you have no rigid check-in or check-out times. On the downside, you must live by the rules of the house — which may include a ban on smoking or alcohol, non-vegetarian food and late nights! Some homestays offer meals as part of their tariff plan, others bill these separately. But almost all offer complimentary breakfasts. Many also offer allied activities so that you don’t get bored.
Today there are a host of websites that make homestay bookings — you just need to swipe your credit card. Even hospitality majors like Club Mahindra have portals where they offer you a selection of home stays from across the country.
We offer a few recommendations.
Maranat Mana
This home provides a chance to experience a tiny but lovely part of Kerala. Praveen Maranat, 35, will be your host at this Namboothiri illam (Kerala Brahmin household) situated in Pandikkad, in the heavily forested Malappuram district of north Kerala. The district lies in the foothills of the Western Ghats and is thus blessed with a temperate climate. The house is said to be one of the last remaining with the typical pathinaru kettu (four courtyards) design of traditional elite Kerala architecture.
Occupying a plinth area of one acre, the Maranat mana (home) sits on an eight-acre plot filled with coconut, cashew, mango, jackfruit, nutmeg and vanilla trees and many medicinal plants. There are 30 family members, and the food is strictly vegetarian. Your evenings can be reserved for folk art performances by local artistes. Tariff on enquiry: www.theblueyonder.com.
Coffee Home
Nestled in the lush coffee plantations of Coorg is the home of Viju Chengappa. Aptly, the aroma of fresh brewing coffee wafts through this house all day long. This is a home where all you may want to do is snooze in a hammock. If you get tired of that, there is plenty of acreage to wander about in. Homemaker Nimmi Chengappa serves you the best of Kodava cuisine, including the famous pandi (pork) curry. The family makes its own fruit preserves — perfect for your morning toast — and also grows its own spices. Evenings can be spent around a campfire. There is an option of a culinary vacation here, with Nimmi teaching you her kitchen tricks. Tariff: Rs 1,750 per day, inclusive of food, accommodation and all other charges. Children below six are accommodated free of charge, and those between six and 12 years of age invite a charge of Rs 875 per day. Email: contact.tazad@gmail.com
In the lap of the Himalayas
It is not often that you get to stay with a farming community in the high reaches of Spiti, Himachal Pradesh. This home is located at an altitude of 12,000 feet in the village of Lagza, near the town of Kaza. The village lies at the foot of the Chau Chau Khang Nilda peak (6,380 m) and the home is surrounded by green fields of peas and barley. There is plenty of crisp mountain air to breathe in, and the tea served is from organically grown seabuckthorn berries. For exercise, trek in the mountains and see yak herding.
People in Spiti follow Tibetan Buddhism and you can see the architecture of the houses being influenced by this. Two-storey mud-and-brick houses have wooden doors with Buddhist gods brightly painted on them. Tariff: Rs 2,500 per night, food and activities extra. For details: www.mahindrahomestays.com
A forest in Assam
Tucked away near the oil fields of Digboi is the jungle village of Phaneng, a world away from the bustle of the cities. It is inhabited by the Tai Phake community, which has set aside one house for guests. The house is made in the traditional style using bamboo, and is elevated on stilts — which allows for ventilation from all sides, even from the floor. The system is so effective that you don’t need even a ceiling fan. The traditional cuisine of the community is reminiscent of South-east Asian flavours: huge bowls of soup made from fresh vegetables, shrubs and flowers. To cool off, you can take a dip in a gurgling stream nearby. Tariff on request. phaneng@gmail.com.
