Fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani's new factory takes inspiration from the 16th century Jamali Kamali tomb and mosque.
As you drive through Gurgaon to reach fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani’s new factory, you want to weep at the glass facade monstrosities that now dot the place and which, for some mysterious reason, are considered examples of good modern architecture.
The journey becomes worse as you get closer to Tahiliani’s factory for, by now, the structures are uglier and the road almost non-existent.
And then you come upon Tahiliani’s factory with its giant red-brick facade that seems to acknowledge that architecture in India was once a gentler and more refined pursuit. Funnily, it has taken a French architect to show us that we can be proud of our native design heritage.
Stephane Paumier, who came to India 12 years ago and stayed on to practice here, says of Tahiliani’s factory: “The area where the factory is located isn’t fully developed. Our aim was to create a nice space for everyone to work. The idea was to put a farmhouse on top of the factory.”
If that sounds a bit indulgent, one has only to turn a beady eye to the landscape surrounding the factory.
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Says Tahiliani, “We went to Jamali Kamali and took several photographs. The inspiration for this space has come from there.”
Jamali was a Sufi saint who died during Humayun’s time, while Kamali’s identity remains unclear to date. The tomb and mosque are located in Mehrauli, close to Gurgaon. Says Paumier, “Curved and then straight lines on the roof — the technique comes from Indian architecture.”
He adds, “The logic of the building was for it to be imposing, monumental.” The facade cleverly mimics the two Ts of Tahiliani’s initials as well as the name of his pret label.
The factory was initially meant to be just another workspace but, says Tahiliani, his sister Tina who also works with him insisted that the factory should reflect the fact that theirs was a design company.
Says Tahiliani, “I discovered Stefan and I loved working with him.” Such has been their ability to agree on design issues that the two have collaborated again on designing Tahiliani’s flagship store in Emporio, the luxury mall in Vasant Kunj, Delhi, that will open shortly.
The exposed red brick of the factory is complemented by exposed concrete everywhere. There isn’t a hint of paint on the walls. Says Paumier, “Using rough materials is seen as being luxurious in Europe and Japan. Armani has used exposed concrete.”
For Tahiliani, the use of red brick and the way the building is designed are a continuation of his love for all things Indian. He says, “I like to reference Indian things.”
Those who have followed Tahiliani’s career so far would have noticed that the Indian influence is getting more and more pronounced even in his pret line. And then there is also the fact that Tahiliani is the king of Indian bridal wear.
The building took two years to be ready and, according to Tahiliani, incorporates European standards of safety. Gesturing to the wall in his office, Tahiliani says, “This building is really solid.”
As a place that houses a large workforce, it was important that the building stayed cool during the hot summer months.
Says Tahiliani, “We have used a cavity between the walls so that air-conditioning isn’t required.” The high ceiling also ensures that the hot air doesn’t get trapped inside. There is also lots of natural light coming in which means minimum use of electricity for the tailors inside.
Says Paumier, “The way the building is designed, we’ve managed to get maximum light inside. But you get no view as the view outside is horrible.”
The piece de resistance is the tropical garden on the roof. Says Paumier, “Right in the middle there is a garden which we expect to be great.”
The interiors, especially where there is Tahiliani’s office and the studio, remain unchanged. Says Tahiliani, “When I like something, it stays with me for years. I have brought everything I had from my earlier office.”
Even though Tahiliani and his team moved to the factory recently, they are happily already running out of space in the 45,000 sqft building. Says Tahiliani, “Last year we consolidated the business. This year we are hoping to grow at 30 per cent.”
With the first ever couture week next month, followed by the Tranoi fair in Paris in October, and finally the fashion week and a brand new flagship store opening in Emporio this week, Tahiliani is likely to grow fast this year.
Would that mean the start of another new design collaboration and another exciting new building to admire in a sea of ugly buildings to house Tahiliani’s growing business?
