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It's all white and all aflutter at Wimbledon

The All England Club tightens its dress code and the players feel they've gone a little too far

Ben Rothenberg
Wimbledon has long required players to wear outfits that are "predominantly in white" or "almost entirely in white." But this year, a 10-part decree was introduced in the competitors' guide stating that "white does not include off-white or cream" and allowing only "a single trim of colour no wider than one centimetre." The almost-all-white rule now explicitly covers caps, headbands, bandannas, wristbands, shoes and even "any undergarments that either are or can be visible during play (including due to perspiration)." Richard Lewis, chief executive of the All England Club, said the time was right to make accessories subject to the policy used for shirts, shorts and socks. Small sponsor logos may include color, and medical supports can be coloured if "absolutely necessary," the guide said.

The usually unflappable Roger Federer, a seven-time Wimbledon champion, sounded exasperated when asked about the rules. "White, white, full-on white," he said. "I think it's very strict. My personal opinion: I think it's too strict." "If you look at the pictures of Edberg, Becker, there was some colours," Federer added, referring to the Wimbledon champions Stefan Edberg and Boris Becker.

The more specific dress code, which clothing designers and players were notified of months in advance, has been strictly enforced. In the qualifying rounds, the American Rhyne Williams was told to cover the black underside of his hat brim with white tape before he could continue playing. Even Martina Navratilova, a nine-time Wimbledon champion, was told that the pale blue stripe on the skirt she was wearing for an invitational doubles match was against the rules. "I think they've gone too far," she said.

The crackdown comes after years of clothing manufacturers' adding more pops of colour to Wimbledon ensembles in an effort to stand out in a sea of white. In 2010, Serena Williams wore an off-white dress with red trim and bright red undershorts. She described the outfit as a tribute to strawberries and cream, Wimbledon's traditional snack.

One of the tipping points for the rule change might have come last year, when Federer wore white shoes with orange soles for his first-round match. Tournament officials told him that the colour was too much and that he had to change his shoes for the next match.

Tennis whites became a phenomenon in the late 1800s to prevent the appearance of unseemly sweat stains as the sport became increasingly popular at social gatherings. "One problem which simply had to be addressed very early on was that of perspiration," Valerie Warren wrote in Tennis Fashion: Over 125 Years of Costume Change. "As increased skill at the game led to more movement on court, this in turn led to the dreaded problem of perspiration causing the appearance of embarrassing damp patches on coloured fabrics. It was quite unthinkable that a lady should be seen to perspire!" Wearing white at Wimbledon was a matter of tradition, not stipulation, for the next six decades.

When the United States Open became the first international tournament to allow coloured apparel, in 1972, Wimbledon did not budge. Even a decade later, the competitors' guide said, "The British Public still likes to see tennis and cricket played in whites."

Enforcement was inconsistent. During his five Wimbledon title runs, Bjorn Borg wore a white shirt with green pinstripes and a navy collar, which became a popular seller for Fila. Designers for Fila assumed that they wouldn't need approval in 2001 when dressing its players in an identical design as part of a retrospective collection, but the All England Club rejected the design, and emergency white shirts had to be raced from Italy to England.

Pat Cash won Wimbledon in 1987 wearing a black-and-white checkered bandanna, and he kept the accessory as he made the transition to the seniors circuit. "I think white is great," he said. "But I think it's a little bit strict and a bit old-fashioned."

But Venus Williams, who has her own clothing design company, EleVen, and often sports some of the most distinctive looks at tennis tournaments, did not bristle at the stricter rules. "I think it's a nice change," she said. "I think everyone just kind of glows in white."
© 2014 The New York Times
 

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First Published: Jul 05 2014 | 8:50 PM IST

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