Indian wine makers are exploring other grape varieties
That Indian wines are made mostly from a select few ‘noble’ French grape varieties is more a historical accident than design, and growers are still trying to determine which grape varieties are best suited for the Indian terroir.
All said and done, French wines still define ‘quality’, so it was natural for growers to start by using the French grapes that could grow here: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Bordeaux, and Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Early trials established that cold climate grapes like Pinot Noir or Chardonnay were extremely difficult to grow in our hot climate, and somehow from the Rhone, only Syrah (Shiraz) established roots here.
But there’s a world of wine grapes out there, and growers are experimenting with new varieties. Viognier is showing promise, and I would definitely tell wine lovers to try the Viognier wines of both Grover Vineyards (Rs 500) and Four Seasons (Rs 550) — both wines are aromatic, fruity, and soft, with balanced acidity and a lip-smacking finish.
Vintage Wines’ new Reveilo Grillo (Rs 605 in Mumbai) is evincing lots of interest — this is the most widely-planted white grape in Sicily, and in India the wine has an aroma of orange, citrus fruit and grapefruit with crisp acidity, medium body, and a slatey mineral finish. The company also produces India’s only Chardonnay — look out for their Reserve, slightly pricey at Rs 1,145 (Mumbai and Bangalore).
Then there’s Big Banyan’s new Bellissima Late Harvest wine (Rs 500), made from the Muscat grape. Available only in 375 ml bottles, this dessert wine has an intense aroma of tropical fruits and honey, and a full-bodied taste with the honey predominating.
Last of the new whites is Sula’s Riesling, available only in Mumbai (Rs 660) — a brave effort to tropicalise a grape that thrives in the cold reaches of the Alsace and Mosel regions of Europe. The wine itself is a very ‘new World’ version of the real thing, but with definite notes of slate and honey and a sweetish finish that will wow the ladies.
The range of alternative reds is, strangely enough, more restricted: Vintage Wines’ Nero D’Avola (the most popular Sicilian red — Rs 645 in Mumbai) is the most interesting new wine launched in recent years: an intense aroma of cherries, with notes of spice and pepper, and a good fruity taste, this will do great in Italian restaurants.
The only Merlot is Sula’s Satori (about Rs 500), originally 100 per cent Chilean, but increasingly indigenised over the years. Surprisingly, nobody else has come out with a Merlot yet.
Sula’s Zinfandel red (about Rs 500) has been around for some time, as has their Zinfandel Blush wine (about Rs 450), while the Big Banyan Zinfandel (Rs 495 in Goa and Rs 650 in Bangalore) is more recent but soft and fruit-forward, and wine that has found many converts.
Lastly, there’s Sula’s Mosaic Syrah-Grenache (Rs 340-375), a surprisingly drinkable wine at a reasonable price point that is sure to gain followers.
And that’s it, really: no Malbec, or Torrontes, or even Pinotage. Let’s hope innovations in the pipeline reach us soon.
Cheers!
[Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant]
