Designer Madhu Jain moved out of Old Delhi, but often visits her spiritual and culinary home.
There is initial reluctance from designer Madhu Jain. “I haven’t held a ladle in my hand for years now, and you want to watch me cook?” she exclaims over the phone. But then she offers: “No, you come, I will make something special from Old Delhi for you.”
That was music to my ears. From the little that I have wandered around that part of the city, I must admit it is a gastronomic delight.
I reach her home, and while she mulls over where to sit down for our conversation, I suggest that the kitchen would be just right. She warns me her kitchen is simple and is specifically suited to one purpose —cooking — and not looking good. She tells me the dish she has in mind is already half done, as she has let her head cook do the honours. I am a little disappointed, but she adds helpfully: “I am from Old Delhi, but he does make it perfectly.”
The smell of fresh ghee in the kitchen is overpowering. I find that an entire saucepan is filled with baby potatoes simmering in ghee and yoghurt, spiced with fiery red chillies. I have second thoughts about the recipe, but Jain assures me that, in an hour, my opinion will be markedly different. Thus, we settle down with glasses of carrot juice.
“The Walled City is a different world by itself,” she starts. Members of Jain’s family, I learn, are among the oldest residents of Delhi, and used to occupy the area called Kucha Bulaki Begum in the heart of the Walled City. She remembers spending her early years in her grandmother’s house, walking past the wonderful sandstone havelis and growing up on a diet of street food.
But the latter part of her childhood was spent in Civil Lines, where her father built the family residence. “It was property that belonged to Salman Rushdie and was disputed for many years,” she recalls.
While Delhi grew during the Nehru years, the family moved into residences in the areas carved out by Edwin Lutyens. She says she saw the birth of today’s Delhi, but that there is a divide between its ancient and modern parts which will never be bridged. She rattles off a long list of places I must check out, especially the eateries she promises no one knows about. I ask her to lead the way.
The potato dish arrives and Jain ensures it is served right with missi-methi roti and boondi raita. Unfortunately, this is when conversation takes a backseat. And as I’m struggling to catch my breath after stuffing myself, there is dessert. “This is til ka laddoo from the Dhikaji store in Chandni Chowk. There’s none that matches it...”
FAVOURITE RECIPE
SOOSE KE ALOO
1 kg baby potatoes
1 kg desi ghee
1 kg yoghurt
1 kg kashmiri mirch
Salt to taste
This dish is a traditional Walled City preparation. More than anything, it requires patience. Do not peel the potatoes. Just wash them thoroughly in a bowl of lukewarm water. Get the desi ghee warmed up in a huge kadhai and add the yoghurt. Gently add the potatoes and kashmiri mirch. Bring the kadhai’s contents to a simmer. Let the potatoes boil and soak in the ghee, yoghurt and spices. It is said to take typically four hours for the ghee to soak in well. The preparation should be ready to serve dry. The dish should be accompanied by missi-methi roti, boondi raita and carrot-amla-ginger juice.
