Going to Paris? Take a weekend off to discover Champagne country — over many decadent flutes of bubbly, says Anoothi Vishal.
Sitting in a European castle (one with a moat and turrets) on top of a hill, having a champagne-soaked lunch, minding the fish knife from the others, is the culmination of a morning’s hard labour. We’ve been at the vineyard picking grapes.
And I’ve managed to gather almost 50 kg of fruit, enough for about 10 bottles of the bubbly. If I was to be paid my honest wages, it would have meant a satisfactory amount no doubt — unlike what those boisterous Americans in our group would make for being more touristy, more chatty and pointing out last night’s dinner in the chalky soil: Escargots. This is France, of course.
Champagne Launois is a largish maison, right in the heart of Cote des Blancs, Chardonnay kingdom, in Champagne. They own a grand cru vineyard and the abovementioned castle where tourists usually end up for a meal after “experiencing” the picking and the bottling.
The best time to visit is during the harvest. We are right in its midst — two weeks in September when “gypsies” and locals and even young men from neighbouring countries turn up to work. It is a busy, even boisterous time and Monsieur Launois has sure got into the spirit of things.
Having sampled yet another round of Champagne (this time from hollows in the bases of bottles), we are being driven to lunch by Launois, a ruddy-cheeked man of the soil, in his ancient bus.
Launois drives it uphill himself to the sound of, well, rock ‘n’ roll! The Americans are awestruck, a couple of Belgians break into dance, the bus swerves, and we, well, we just enjoy the liberty of not having to mind our drink or manners, and not worry about driving back.
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France has recently tightened its rules on drinking and driving and some entrepreneurs that I meet during my week in the region attribute the bubbly’s falling market in their country to this. The biggest consumers, traditionally, have been the British. But Japan is big and, of course, China and India are growing thanks to the shift in the market for all luxury. So, at this point, it helps to be an Indian here — even if you are the first from the country to arrive at a chateau.
“We had no idea that yours was such a great country,” says Monsieur Bruno Paillard, owner of the third biggest house in Champagne. As a first-generation tycoon where everyone is busy tracing roots to medieval times, Paillard is an unusual man: He started only in the 1980s and when he had difficulty buying up traditional cellars, he decided to build his own above the ground, far more technologically advanced. His facility in Reims, all glass and steel, usually inaccessible to tourists, is an exception in this dark, dank, subterranean world.
Paillard’s bubbly, of course, is special too: Not just because he ages it longer than required by law but also because (like Bollinger, the “James Bond” Champagne) he uses only the first press or cuvee of grape juice — also referring to this clearly on his label as “premier cuvee”.
Besides his vintage wines come in bottles where the label is specially-commissioned art work depicting “key words” for that year’s wine. So we see “movement” and “strength” and “suppleness” and other abstractions printed. Unfortunately, you may not find these in India.
As we sit by the fireplace in Paillard’s home, listening to the bubbles (very fine, because of extra ageing) in our rose, exactly how we’ve been taught to, Paillard is keen to know India. It is a market he is watching carefully.
His wife has personally cooked a simple dinner for us, served in exquisite Rosenthal plates, and as the cheese course arrives (before dessert), Paillard is curious: “Do you have cheese in your country?” he hesitates. We explain; all the while thinking of the Jaguar that stands outside and the man who started off with 15,000 Euros — having raised the sum, ironically, by selling off another old Jaguar...
Despite the fact that such few Indians have attempted it, a Champagne trail is not difficult to organise at all. From Paris, it may be a day trip with a visit to the cellars and tastings. Or, it could be a more elaborate weekend one.
The ancient town of Reims is probably where you’ll be based. Known for its cathedral where the first of the French kings were coronated, the town was destroyed during WW I. Now, its inhabitants say, they are prepared for another one, what with their cellars. Dig up the streets and you are likely to blunder into a cellar.
Cattier, situated in the village of Chigny-les-Roses, is the maker of Armand de Brignac, Ace of Spades Champagne that has been taken up by the rapper community in the US as replacement for Cristal.
Two years ago, after an ill-advised statement from Frederic Rouzaud, managing director of the house Louis Roederer that makes Cristal, the high wattage bubbly was “banned” from America’s clubland.
Ace of Spades stepped in, in all its glittery packaging that some call pure marketing. Monsieur Cattier, the patriarch, proudly shows off the line. There’s also the house’s top-of-the-line Clos de Moulin. But what is remarkable here are the cellars. The deepest in Champagne (30 m), they are dug up to three levels, each with its distinct “architecture”: Gothic, Roman, Renaissance. The oldest date back 300 years.
At Veuve Clicquot, the cellars are as daunting but they remind me of a Star Wars world with runway lights. As far as tours go, this one is the best orchestrated. Clicquot, of course, belongs to the LVMH group, sister to the better-known but less- revered-these days Moet et Chandon.
Our tour kicks off with a visit to the museum showing the brand’s history and its days under “widow” (veuve is French for widow) Clicquot. Interestingly, the term “widow” on the label was a mark of quality at that time with many hardy widows taking to the business.
The most interesting part though is the collection of counterfeit Yellow Labels. The tour ends with a tasting and you can buy wines, including the decadent Grande Dame rose.
For us, there’s more: Lunch. This time at a private house owned by Clicquot. An ancient cedar stands in the garden, straight out of Enid Blyton. “No money can buy a stay here,” our guide gushes, “Only by invitation.”
The house overlook a vineyard. Clicquot’s “Women of the Year” guests “water” the vines with Champagne annually — because no irrigation is permitted. We go looking for a plaque bearing the name Kiran Majumdar Shaw, the only Indian. And find it.
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POMMERY |
TAITTINGER
One-hour cellar tours by hostesses who are trained interpreters. A film is also shown. Cost ¤10. www.taittinger.com
VEUVE CLICQUOT
One-and-half hour guided tour followed by tasting. Monday to Saturday (April 1 to Oct 31) and Monday to Friday (Nov 2 to March 31). Charge is ¤ 8.50 per person. Exclusively by appointment. www.veuve-clicquot.com
MOET ET CHANDON
Reservations recommended for guided tours in French and English. Traditional tour (1 flute of Brut Imperial) costs ¤ 13, others cost higher. www.moet.com
MUMMS
The general visit includes a 10-minute film, visit to the cellars and talk on the history of the house, concludes with a tasting of the signature Cordon Rouge. Specialised tours available. Costs vary from 11.26 to 18.05 pounds.
WHERE TO STAY
Look for hotels in Reims or Epernay. A charming option could be hotel Royal Champagne, a former coaching inn dating from the 18th century, 25 rooms only. Average price (as listed on tripadvisor.com) is $ 462
(Most tours are by appointment)
