It is said that Peshwa Baji Rao II was never trained in warfare, was not an able administrator, was poorly educated and believed in ghosts. These may be stories told by courtiers, but what is true is that this peshwa built Vishrambaugwada. This wada or mansion in Pune, completed in 1811, is an elegant building now getting a long-deserved and sorely needed restoration.
The Pune Municipal Corporation (PMC) under its heritage plan has been working on this and other monuments of significance for the last two years. Its Heritage Cell was founded in 2003 and PMC has already spent Rs 50 lakh on the first phase of work at Vishrambaugwada; the second phase is now under way.
Vishrambaugwada, a three-storeyed structure in Old Pune, took six years to build. It has fine doorways and baithaks with intricate woodwork by craftsmen from Rajasthan and Gujarat. The Peshwai style of architecture dominates, and yet there are Neo-Gothic elements dating from a previous restoration under the British after a massive fire damaged the wada in 1879.
“The fire destroyed beautiful pieces of art and parts of the original structure,” says Kiran Kalamdani, an independent conservationist and architect. “Many staircases, water fountain ducts, drainage channels among other things were damaged. We found documents dating back to when the building was erected which had these details. The fountains, for example, were buried and we rediscovered them because of these documents. Fire destruction and time are the two factors that have injured the wada. Those parts were repaired on a priority basis in phase one” of the restoration.
What else was amiss? The pillars were cracked, the colours had faded, and the building needed structural strengthening. PMC experts also found that a 300 ft-deep drinking water well needed to be restored, and that fresh brick work was required.
“The first step was to scrape the pillars with sandpaper and wire brush, not too hard,” says Satyajeet Avachite, who has 18 years of experience in restoration and has worked on the wada for three months. “After which, the pillars were treated with linseed oil so that the wood doesn’t become dry and attract termites.”
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Modern bricks are distinct from the ones used in the wada. How will the restorers match the old brick work? “Restoration is like surgery,” says Shyaam Dhavalaey, head of the PMC Heritage Cell. “Saving a life is critical, and various techniques are used. Wood can be saved by injecting epoxy grouting which fills up the crevices. Bricks customised according to colour and shape are ordered from modern brick kilns. Seasoned wood, 200-300 years old, is procured for beams and door frames.” Timber merchants source this wood from old railway sleepers and demolished old buildings. The first phase of restoration included 800-1,000 sq ft of woodwork.
Three to five craftsmen are on site on a typical day. They are paid Rs 300-400 a day, and say they are pleased. To appoint an agency to do the work the PMC floats a tender. Then the winner’s craftsmen are skill-tested on site. Masons are tested for stone-work and chiselling, painters for painting. Once the PMC is satisfied it gives the go-ahead. Officials keep tabs on the work.
Craftsman Manoj Mane has three years of experience. “All the training happens on the job,” he says. “I had a leather business before and I have studied only till 10th standard. Currently I am doing brick work. The criteria is that the new bricks should look as close as possible to the old ones. This place badly needs preservation. There are lots of rats and bandicoots around here.”
Vishrambaugwada has 40,000 sq ft of built-up area on a 20,000 sq ft plot. Its three large courtyards which attract tourists and school outings. Two large sections of the wada are occupied by a post office and a government library.
The PMC has opened a museum in the wada. It houses paintings, old city maps and other materials related to the Peshwa era. But the museum is not well-maintained. “We get 40 visitors a day,” says the man at the museum entrance, adding that “There are no cleaners appointed for the museum to come and clean on a daily basis.” He passes his work hours studying for his exams!
The part of the wada restored in the first phase also looks as if it could use a second revival. Discarded metal, plastic cups and bags, antique wood corners, a wooden temple for household idols, furniture and other such flotsam is piled in corners. Water leakage can be seen due to overflowing overhead water tanks. “Yes there is definitely scope for improvement, but we are to work only as per the tender,” says Avachite.
There is no entry fee, and even though the site is under restoration no area is cordoned off. Students as well as acquaintances of the police staff on duty walk in and out freely. Passersby come to fill water bottles from a leaking tap.
A respectable beginning has been made, there is some progress, skilled and passionate people are working to save this beautiful and historic building, and the PMC does not seem to have stinted on funds. And yet Vishrambaugwada’s future does not seem secure.
